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Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback - BMX

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback BMX Bike

1

Begin by carefully opening the cardboard bike box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do so.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

3

Now that your bike is out of the box, begin removing all of the packing material from the frame and detatching the wheel and handlebar by cutting all zipties that may be holding parts together. Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes brake cables while doing so.

4

Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Finish by using a hex wrench to tighten. Make sure that you have inserted the seatpost past the minimum insertion line (printed or stamped on post near bottom). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

5

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position. Remove the stem bolts and faceplate, place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cables.

6

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (use and “X” pattern for four bolt systems) and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom.

7

If your bike has a Gyro follow these steps to install your Gyro cable and adjust your brake.

If your bike comes with a straight cable, skip to step 8. First start with routing your upper gyro cable under the cross bar of the handle bar. Now note the cable length, one side will be longer than the other. The longest cable threads into top plate on the non-drive (left) side of the stem. The shorter cable threads into the top plate on the drive (right) side of the stem. Next, push cable narp (balled end of the cable) into the slotted portion of the rotor plate. Repeat this step on the opposing side. Refer to the gyro instructions included with the bike for proper adjustment.

8

Now you can situate your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet. If you do not have a stand you can flip your bike upside down resting on the seat and handlebars to finish your build.

9

For rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on cable. Start by squeezing brake lever arms together in order to release cable noodle. Next take the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever. Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. For this you’ll need either a 15mm wrench or 19mm wrench depending on the axle size. To start make sure the fork is in the correct position (the thicker metal tab that holds the axle should be facing forward/not towards the rider). Slip the front axel into the fork dropouts. Make sure safety washers are installed property before tightening the front axle nuts.

11

If your bike comes with pegs, you’ll want to install these before installing the axle nuts. You will need a 15mm or 19mm deep socket and extension. Make sure safety washer is installed properly on fork drop out before slipping peg onto axle. Slip the peg onto the axel. Insert axle nut into end of socket and thread by hand until axle nut is snug. Tighten down for safety. Repeat this step for the opposing side and rear peg assembly.

12

Some bikes may arrive without rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

Pull the break lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster.

Your Diamondback BMX bike should arrive with brakes adjusted. If your brakes need further adjustment, We recommend taking your bike to your local Diamondback Dealer.

13

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. To do so, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.

14

For pedal installation, we recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing. Next, take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Take the left pedal (should be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal), turn the pedal left to tighten (counter clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

15

Now it’s time to inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacturer’s recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

16

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

  1. every bolt is tight,
  2. your wheels are secured in place,
  3. that your rear brake (if applicable) are functioning properly,
  4. the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to build a bike yourself, we strongly suggest that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. They may charge you a fee to do so.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

8712.00.1520http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB6SDWU/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?14146963885381Web ProfileBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5381/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1426165589http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5381/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1426165589http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5381/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1426165589http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5381/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1426165589http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5381/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1426165589bike media5991Web ProfileDark Greyhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5991/small/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_profile.jpg?1426165458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5991/medium/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_profile.jpg?1426165458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5991/large/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_profile.jpg?1426165458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5991/xlarge/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_profile.jpg?1426165458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5991/xxlarge/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_profile.jpg?14261654585382Web AngleBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5382/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1426165635http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5382/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1426165635http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5382/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1426165635http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5382/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1426165635http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5382/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1426165635bike media5992Web AngleDark Greyhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5992/small/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_angle.jpg?1426165698http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5992/medium/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_angle.jpg?1426165698http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5992/large/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_angle.jpg?1426165698http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5992/xlarge/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_angle.jpg?1426165698http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5992/xxlarge/DB_15_Viper_DkGrey_angle.jpg?14261656985836Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5836/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-BRAKE.jpg?1426165875http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5836/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-BRAKE.jpg?1426165875http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5836/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-BRAKE.jpg?1426165875http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5836/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-BRAKE.jpg?1426165875http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5836/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-BRAKE.jpg?14261658755837Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5837/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-DRIVE.jpg?1426165903http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5837/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-DRIVE.jpg?1426165903http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5837/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-DRIVE.jpg?1426165903http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5837/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-DRIVE.jpg?1426165903http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5837/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-DRIVE.jpg?14261659035838Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5838/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-FORK.jpg?1426165900http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5838/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-FORK.jpg?1426165900http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5838/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-FORK.jpg?1426165900http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5838/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-FORK.jpg?1426165900http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5838/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-FORK.jpg?14261659005839Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5839/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-RD.jpg?1426165898http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5839/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-RD.jpg?1426165898http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5839/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-RD.jpg?1426165898http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5839/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-RD.jpg?1426165898http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5839/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-RD.jpg?14261658985840Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5840/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-SADDLE.jpg?1426165897http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5840/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-SADDLE.jpg?1426165897http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5840/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-SADDLE.jpg?1426165897http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5840/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-SADDLE.jpg?1426165897http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5840/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-SADDLE.jpg?1426165897Hassle-free simplicity and durability: a true BMX bike.

The Viper is a streamlined bike meant for riding fun and neighborhood adventures. The high tensile steel frame is super durable and the matching fork provides solid steering. The no hassle single speed drivetrain delivers the pedaling power, while the rear linear pull brake makes sure you can stop on a dime.

High tensile steel frame built to lastHigh tensile steel fork is strong to provide safe handlingSingle speed drivetrain is simple and reliableLinear pull rear brake delivers stopping powerDB Hi-Ten SteelHi-Ten steelThreadless 1 1/8"165mm steel 1-piece44t steelLooseball16t FreewheelKMC Z41036h Nutted36h aluminum shell w/ 3/8" axle14g36h aluminum, 30mm wide, ano blackComp III style 20x1.75"LinearAPSEResin PlatformHi-ten steel 2-piece 25" wide x 6.75" riseDB Icon Grip4 bolt alloy top loadDB PaddedSteel Pillar 25.4mm200.0150.01464620"0.0235.0495.000100.074.070.00.0368.032.40.040.050.0635.0175.0300.00.00.00.00.002-15-5190Diamondback1946Viper2016Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 6-10
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback - BMX

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback BMX Bike

1

Begin by carefully opening the cardboard bike box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do so.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

3

Now that your bike is out of the box, begin removing all of the packing material from the frame and detatching the wheel and handlebar by cutting all zipties that may be holding parts together. Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes brake cables while doing so.

4

Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Finish by using a hex wrench to tighten. Make sure that you have inserted the seatpost past the minimum insertion line (printed or stamped on post near bottom). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

5

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position. Remove the stem bolts and faceplate, place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cables.

6

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (use and “X” pattern for four bolt systems) and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom.

7

If your bike has a Gyro follow these steps to install your Gyro cable and adjust your brake.

If your bike comes with a straight cable, skip to step 8. First start with routing your upper gyro cable under the cross bar of the handle bar. Now note the cable length, one side will be longer than the other. The longest cable threads into top plate on the non-drive (left) side of the stem. The shorter cable threads into the top plate on the drive (right) side of the stem. Next, push cable narp (balled end of the cable) into the slotted portion of the rotor plate. Repeat this step on the opposing side. Refer to the gyro instructions included with the bike for proper adjustment.

8

Now you can situate your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet. If you do not have a stand you can flip your bike upside down resting on the seat and handlebars to finish your build.

9

For rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on cable. Start by squeezing brake lever arms together in order to release cable noodle. Next take the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever. Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. For this you’ll need either a 15mm wrench or 19mm wrench depending on the axle size. To start make sure the fork is in the correct position (the thicker metal tab that holds the axle should be facing forward/not towards the rider). Slip the front axel into the fork dropouts. Make sure safety washers are installed property before tightening the front axle nuts.

11

If your bike comes with pegs, you’ll want to install these before installing the axle nuts. You will need a 15mm or 19mm deep socket and extension. Make sure safety washer is installed properly on fork drop out before slipping peg onto axle. Slip the peg onto the axel. Insert axle nut into end of socket and thread by hand until axle nut is snug. Tighten down for safety. Repeat this step for the opposing side and rear peg assembly.

12

Some bikes may arrive without rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

Pull the break lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster.

Your Diamondback BMX bike should arrive with brakes adjusted. If your brakes need further adjustment, We recommend taking your bike to your local Diamondback Dealer.

13

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. To do so, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.

14

For pedal installation, we recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing. Next, take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Take the left pedal (should be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal), turn the pedal left to tighten (counter clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

15

Now it’s time to inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacturer’s recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

16

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

  1. every bolt is tight,
  2. your wheels are secured in place,
  3. that your rear brake (if applicable) are functioning properly,
  4. the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to build a bike yourself, we strongly suggest that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. They may charge you a fee to do so.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10052&langId=-1&catalogId=10551&productId=1155376PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?1383264374http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB6SDWU/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?14146963888389Web ProfileBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8389/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518813http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8389/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518813http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8389/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518813http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8389/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518813http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8389/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518813bike media8391Web ProfileBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8391/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518858http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8391/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518858http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8391/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518858http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8391/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518858http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8391/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-profile.jpg?1449518858bike media8390Web AngleBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8390/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518815http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8390/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518815http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8390/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518815http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8390/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518815http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8390/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518815bike media8392Web AngleBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8392/small/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518859http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8392/medium/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518859http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8392/large/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518859http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8392/xlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518859http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/8392/xxlarge/DB_14_Viper-blue-angle.jpg?1449518859bike mediaHassle-free simplicity and durability: a true BMX bike.

The Viper is a streamlined bike meant for riding fun and neighborhood adventures. The high tensile steel frame is super durable and the matching fork provides solid steering. The no hassle single speed drivetrain delivers the pedaling power, while the rear linear pull brake makes sure you can stop on a dime.

High tensile steel frame built to lastHigh tensile steel fork is strong to provide safe handlingSingle speed drivetrain is simple and reliableLinear pull rear brake delivers stopping powerDB Hi-Ten SteelHi-Ten steelThreadless 1 1/8"165mm steel 1-piece44t steelSquare Taper - 5pc16t FreewheelKMC Z41036h Nutted36h aluminum shell w/ 3/8" axle14g36h aluminum, 30mm wide, ano blackComp III style 20x1.75"LinearAPSEResin PlatformHi-ten steel 2-piece 25" wide x 6.75" riseDB Icon Grip4 bolt alloy top loadDB PaddedSteel Pillar 25.4mm200.029529Boys/20"0.00.0495.0000.074.070.00.0368.30.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.002-14-5290Diamondback1394Jr Viper2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 4-8
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback - BMX

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback BMX Bike

1

Begin by carefully opening the cardboard bike box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do so.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

3

Now that your bike is out of the box, begin removing all of the packing material from the frame and detatching the wheel and handlebar by cutting all zipties that may be holding parts together. Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes brake cables while doing so.

4

Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Finish by using a hex wrench to tighten. Make sure that you have inserted the seatpost past the minimum insertion line (printed or stamped on post near bottom). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

5

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position. Remove the stem bolts and faceplate, place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cables.

6

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (use and “X” pattern for four bolt systems) and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom.

7

If your bike has a Gyro follow these steps to install your Gyro cable and adjust your brake.

If your bike comes with a straight cable, skip to step 8. First start with routing your upper gyro cable under the cross bar of the handle bar. Now note the cable length, one side will be longer than the other. The longest cable threads into top plate on the non-drive (left) side of the stem. The shorter cable threads into the top plate on the drive (right) side of the stem. Next, push cable narp (balled end of the cable) into the slotted portion of the rotor plate. Repeat this step on the opposing side. Refer to the gyro instructions included with the bike for proper adjustment.

8

Now you can situate your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet. If you do not have a stand you can flip your bike upside down resting on the seat and handlebars to finish your build.

9

For rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on cable. Start by squeezing brake lever arms together in order to release cable noodle. Next take the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever. Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. For this you’ll need either a 15mm wrench or 19mm wrench depending on the axle size. To start make sure the fork is in the correct position (the thicker metal tab that holds the axle should be facing forward/not towards the rider). Slip the front axel into the fork dropouts. Make sure safety washers are installed property before tightening the front axle nuts.

11

If your bike comes with pegs, you’ll want to install these before installing the axle nuts. You will need a 15mm or 19mm deep socket and extension. Make sure safety washer is installed properly on fork drop out before slipping peg onto axle. Slip the peg onto the axel. Insert axle nut into end of socket and thread by hand until axle nut is snug. Tighten down for safety. Repeat this step for the opposing side and rear peg assembly.

12

Some bikes may arrive without rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

Pull the break lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster.

Your Diamondback BMX bike should arrive with brakes adjusted. If your brakes need further adjustment, We recommend taking your bike to your local Diamondback Dealer.

13

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. To do so, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.

14

For pedal installation, we recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing. Next, take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Take the left pedal (should be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal), turn the pedal left to tighten (counter clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

15

Now it’s time to inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacturer’s recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

16

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

  1. every bolt is tight,
  2. your wheels are secured in place,
  3. that your rear brake (if applicable) are functioning properly,
  4. the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to build a bike yourself, we strongly suggest that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. They may charge you a fee to do so.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback

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mediaTransition to levers with this coaster/handbrake bike.

The Jr Viper is a great first time BMX bike for tearing up and down the sidewalk and keeping up with all the other kids on the block. The high tensile steel frame and fork offer worry free durability and the simple single speed drivetrain and doubled up coaster and linear pull rear brakes are easy and safe for young kids to operate.

High tensile steel frame built to lastHigh tensile steel fork is strong to provide safe handlingSingle speed drivetrain is simple and reliableLinear pull plus rear coaster brake deliver stopping powerDB Hi-Ten SteelHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"140mm steel 1-piece36t steelLooseball18t CogKMC Z410 1/2 x 1/836h steel shell w/ 3/8" axle36h steel shell w/ coaster brake, 3/8" axle14g36h aluminum, 30mm wide, ano blackComp III style 20x1.75Rush linear rear w/ coaster hubRush RX2.1Resin PlatformHi-ten steel 2-piece 24" wide x 6" riseDB Icon Grip w/ Nylon End Plug1" quill steel base w/ alloy clampDB BMX paddedSteel Pillar Owner's manual180.0140.01440720"0.0250.0487.000100.073.069.00.0362.033.00.00.040.0610.0140.0280.00.00.00.00.002-14-5300Diamondback2754Jr Viper2016Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 4-8
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The Jr Viper is a great first time BMX bike for tearing up and down the sidewalk and keeping up with all the other kids on the block. The high tensile steel frame and fork offer worry free durability and the simple single speed drivetrain and doubled up coaster and linear pull rear brakes are easy and safe for young kids to operate.

Heavy duty steel frame / forkRush alloy linear-pullbrakes & coaster brakesDB “Icon” grips w/ bar endsJunior Padded seatAlloy 36H rimsHi-Ten steelHi-Ten steel1" threaded140mm steel 1-piece36t steelLoose ball18t cogKMC Z410 1/2 x 1/836h steel shell w/ 3/8" axle36h steel shell w/ coaster brake, 3/8" axle14g36h aluminum, 30mm wide, ano blackComp III style 20x1.75Rush linear rear w/ coaster hubRush RX2.1Resin platformHi-ten steel 2-piece 24" wide x 6" riseDB Icon Grip w/ Nylon End Plug1" quill steel base w/ alloy clampDB BMX paddedSteel pillarOwner's manual180.0140.02971720"0.00.019.0000.073.070.00.014.250.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.002-14-5300Diamondback1401Mini Viper2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 3-6
8712.00.1510http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB6SHKI/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.rei.com/product/862826/diamondback-mini-viper-16-boys-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?14097138476668Web ProfileRoyal Bluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6668/small/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_profile.jpg?1426108157http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6668/medium/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_profile.jpg?1426108157http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6668/large/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_profile.jpg?1426108157http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6668/xlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_profile.jpg?1426108157http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6668/xxlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_profile.jpg?1426108157bike media6669Web AngleRoyal Bluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6669/small/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_angle.jpg?1426108289http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6669/medium/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_angle.jpg?1426108289http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6669/large/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_angle.jpg?1426108289http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6669/xlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_angle.jpg?1426108289http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6669/xxlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu_angle.jpg?1426108289bike media6670DetailRoyal Bluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6670/small/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-BRAKE.jpg?1426108327http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6670/medium/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-BRAKE.jpg?1426108327http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6670/large/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-BRAKE.jpg?1426108327http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6670/xlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-BRAKE.jpg?1426108327http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6670/xxlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-BRAKE.jpg?14261083276671DetailRoyal Bluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6671/small/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-DRIVE.jpg?1426108331http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6671/medium/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-DRIVE.jpg?1426108331http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6671/large/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-DRIVE.jpg?1426108331http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6671/xlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-DRIVE.jpg?1426108331http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6671/xxlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-DRIVE.jpg?14261083316672DetailRoyal Bluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6672/small/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-FORK.jpg?1426108335http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6672/medium/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-FORK.jpg?1426108335http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6672/large/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-FORK.jpg?1426108335http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6672/xlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-FORK.jpg?1426108335http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6672/xxlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-FORK.jpg?14261083356673DetailRoyal Bluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6673/small/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-RD.jpg?1426108346http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6673/medium/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-RD.jpg?1426108346http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6673/large/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-RD.jpg?1426108346http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6673/xlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-RD.jpg?1426108346http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6673/xxlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-RD.jpg?14261083466674DetailRoyal Bluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6674/small/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-SADDLE.jpg?1426108357http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6674/medium/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-SADDLE.jpg?1426108357http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6674/large/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-SADDLE.jpg?1426108357http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6674/xlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-SADDLE.jpg?1426108357http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6674/xxlarge/DB_15_MiniViper_RoyalBlu-SADDLE.jpg?1426108357This bike is perfect for daredevils in training.

The best time to start kids on anything is when they’re young, and bike riding is no different. Getting them out on the Mini Viper can teach them to ride, and they’ll also learn about fresh air, being fit, and having lots of fun.

Durable high tensile steel construction16” wheels for small kidsCoaster brake is easy for kids to learnChain guard keeps kid’s clothes and fingers out of harms wayDB Hi-Ten SteelHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"115mm steel 1-piece36t steelLooseball18t CogKMC Z410 1/2 x 1/828h steel shell w/ 3/8" axle28h steel shell w/ coaster brake, 3/8" axle14g28h aluminum, 30mm wide, ano blackComp III style 16x1.75CoasterResin PlatformHi-ten steel 2-piece 20" wide x 6.5" riseMini BMX1" quill steel base w/ alloy clampDB BMX paddedSteel Pillar N/ATraining wheels & Owner's manual160.0130.01445816" Boys0.0235.0384.000100.072.070.0758.0435.048.0295.00.080.0600.0170.0230.00.00.00.00.002-15-521002-14-5310Diamondback1559Overdrive EXC2015(Archive) Ebike(Archive) 29erPavementOverdriveDella Cruz2015 - MTN - MED - LG
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Hydraulic Disc Brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the front wheel by cutting the zipties holding it to bike.
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting any zipties/removing any packaging.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so. Then carefully remove all of the packing material from the frame.

  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  5. If you are assembling a 2015 Sortie 3, Mason Pro, Mission 2 or Mission Pro please check the dropper seat post manufacturer’s website for proper instructions on how to install that post.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next, remove the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6c
  • 6c
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned correctly and symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. (use an “X” pattern for four bolt stems) The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

8

Install Rear Brake Cable Clamp

9

Set up of front (and rear) disc brakes:

  1. Make sure cable is run correctly along fork – ensure that the fork is in the correct position (the fork arch should be pointing forward, not towards the rear of the bike).

    1. Front cable should run in front of derailleur and rear brake cables.
    2. Run cable thru fork guide
    3. Run cable/caliper along inside of fork
  2. Install Front Caliper

    1. Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
    2. Bottom Bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
  3. Leave a little play in caliper, do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
  4. Leave caliper block in! (This is the piece of plastic between the caliper pads. It is a good idea to keep this piece of plastic so you can use it whenever the front wheel is not on the bike.)

Many of the mountain bikes will come with the front disc caliper installed. For set up and fine tuning adjustments specific to your model of brakes refer to the manufacturer’s installation guides for set up and adjustment.

AVID XO, Elixir 1 & 5, DB 1

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  • 9aii
  • 9aiii
  • 9bi
  • 9bii
  • 9c
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  • 9d
10

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the disc/axle.

11

Some bikes may come with the front disc not installed on the wheel. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking. Prepare to install the front disc rotor. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you’ll want to secure the rotor to the wheel using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a direction arrow.

All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.

12

Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure fork is in the correct position before mounting wheel (fork arch should be pointing forward):

  1. If your bike comes with a standard quick release lever: The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs (smaller part of the spring points in towards the hub and spokes) and make sure that there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Insert skewer thru hub axle. Place spring on skewer and then tighten skewer nut a few turns. Proceed to step 13. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
  2. For bikes with a thru axle – please refer to attached guide from FOX on correct procedure when installing your front wheel with a thru axle system: Fox Thru Axle Instructions Here. Proceed to step 13.
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  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
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  • 12a
  • 12b
13

Some tires will have a directional arrow indicating which way the tire should rotate. If the tire does please make sure the tire will be spinning in the correct direction once on the bike.

14

Make sure you remove the block spacer from front hydraulic brake caliper. DO NOT SQUEEZE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WITHOUT BLOCK OR WHEEL WITH DISC INSTALLED.

15

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure disc sits in between caliper pads and the tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that hard to close or open.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  2. Thru Axle

    1. Install Wheel, disc/caliper alignment
    2. Insert Thru Axle and tighten
    3. Close lever
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  • 15b
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16

Complete Front Brake set up.

  1. Squeeze front brake lever – do not squeeze brake lever if the wheel and caliper are not installed.
  2. While holding the front brake lever, alternate tightening the top and bottom caliper bolts, until tight to manufacturer’s specifications.
  3. Spin wheel to make sure disc passes between caliper brake pads.
  • 16a
  • 16b
  • 16b
17

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

18

Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter clockwise)

19

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

20

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so it hits the stop so that derailleur cannot shift past that gear and into rear wheel spokes.
  2. Correct chain line
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  • 20a
  • 20b
21

While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to highest gear(smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that High adjustment screw (“H” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop so the derailleur cannot shift the chain past that gear and into the bike frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacture’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear derailleur adjustments

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  • 21b
22

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear/right shifter should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link:

Parktool Rear Derailleur

23

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure the chain is sitting on th smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
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  • 23b
24

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back and the small chainring on the cranks.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
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  • 24a
25

To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the largest chainring.

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

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  • 25b
26

Align your bars to the front wheel.

27

Tighten stem cap bolt.

28

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

29

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
30

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly

-the handlebars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

-your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

For those with air forks or shocks: It’s highly recommended that you see your fork manufacturers set up instructions online prior to suspension set up. Fox Tuning Tips

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

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The 48v motor on the Overdrive EXC has the juice when you don’t. Extend your ride, flatten hills, and maximize fun with the center drive pedal-assist system. It’s simple. Death marches become casual lunch rides as the power adds to your every crank of the pedals, sending it all through a SRAM X-7 rear derailleur. The 6061-T6 aluminum frame is durable and strong, with solid 29er geometry. Tektro hydraulic disc brakes and a RockShox fork help you navigate terrain. Get out there!

48 volt lithium-ion battery powered centerdrive motor provides an electric assisted boost6061-T6 aluminum alloy w/ custom formed and butted tube construction for ultimate durabilityTapered head tube stiffens front end of bike to deliver crisp handling responseRockShox XC30 29" fork is smooth and stoutOverdrive 29" Butted 6061-T6 Aluminum w/ Formed Top / Down Tube, 1.5" Tapered machined headtube, forged drop outs w/replaceable hanger, disc onlyRock Shox XC 30, TK-29" w/turn key lockout, 100mm travel, ext. rebound, compression adj.Sealed Cartridge Bearing for Taper HeadtubeAlloy 42T w/chaingaurdSealed Cartridge w/torque and cadence sensingSRAM X-7 10spSRAM X-7 10spSRAM 1030 10sp(11-36T)KMC X10eRB36h Alloy w/CNC Disc Mount36h Alloy w/CNC Disc MountBlack 14g Stainless SteelDiamondback SL-7 DoublewallSchwalbe Rapid Rob 29X2.25, KevlarGuardTektro Auriga-E Hydraulic Disc, Rotors - 180mm front/180mm RearTektro Auriga-E HydraulicWellgo Alloy forged, CNC MTBDB Laser Series 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 670mmDB4L 135mm KratonDB 3D Forged,31.8mm, 7°DB Race M-series saddleDB Micro Adjust 31.6mmOwner’s manual, 48V Centerdrive Motor, 48V li-on Battery, 48V 2A Battery Charger, Handlebar Display, H20 bottle mounts, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat3300.03000.01449818" Medium30.018.023.500105.071.073.01149.0495.046.0313.00.070.0670.0175.0350.00.00.00.00.01449920" Large31.520.024.500120.071.073.01170.0495.046.0313.00.090.0670.0175.0350.00.00.00.00.002-15-404002-15-4041Diamondback1560Trace EXC2015(Archive) EbikeDual SportPavementTrace2015 - MTN - MED - LG
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Mechanical Disc Brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Mechanical Disc Brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, make sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

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  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.

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  • 3a
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  • 3b
4

Install seat post into frame:

Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube.

  1. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seat post before inserting it.
  2. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR seat post clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. NOTE: Seat clamp bolts are typically tightened to a MAX of 5nm and noted on the seat clamp.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
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  • 4a
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  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – where cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next remove the stem bolts and faceplate.
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
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  • 6b
  • 6c
  • 6c
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. Most bars will offer some guidance using painted marks on the bar.

8

When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally (use an “x” pattern for four bolt systems) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side.

9

The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

10

Install the rear brake cable clamp.

11

Installation and Set-up of front (and rear) mechanical disk brakes:

  1. Gather Caliper Bolts and Washers and Brake Caliper from parts box
  2. Install Front Caliper

    1. Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
    2. Bottom Bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
  3. Begin to tighten Caliper bolts (alternating tightening a few turns each time between the top and bottom caliper bolt), but leave a little play in caliper – do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
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12

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

13

For some disc brakes you may need to install the disc rotors. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you’ll want to secure the rotors to the wheels using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a directional arrow. NOTE: All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.

  • 13
14

Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure the fork is in the correct position before mounting the wheel (fork arch should be facing forward):

  1. Some tires will have a directional arrow (located on the side wall) indicating which way the tire should rotate. If your tire does please install the wheel so the tire will spin in the correct direction.
  2. Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Loosen the non-lever side of skewer and proceed to insert thru front wheel axle. The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of spring points in towards hub and spokes) and make sure there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Place spring on skewer and then thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
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15

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure the disc sits in between caliper pads. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that it is hard to close or open. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
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16

Some bikes may arrive without a front brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

  1. Set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.
  2. Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever.
  3. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle.
  4. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster.
  5. Turn the inner lock adjuster so slots no longer line up in order to keep cable from coming out of lever slot.
  6. Front brake cable routing should run thru cable guide on front of fork, then inside of left fork blade and to adjusting barrel of the front brake caliper.
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  • 16b
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17

Installation and set up of front brake:

  1. Pass the inner cable through the cable adjusting barrel of the front brake caliper. Loosen the anchor bolt. With the arm in the initial position, put the cable under the cable anchor bolt, and tighten the anchor bolt.
  2. While depressing the brake lever, set the calipers to the required position and then tighten the two caliper fixing bolts alternately by small amounts each time. Trim off excess cable leaving approximately 1.5” of cable.
  3. Install the cable end cap and crimp cable end cap to avoid the cable from fraying.
  4. Refer to the following manufacturers sites for specific on adjusting your model of mechanical Disc Caliper:

    1. Tektro Mechanical: Tektro Manual Here
    2. Avid: Avid Manual Here
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18

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the pedal spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to the threads of each pedals thread before installing.

19

Start by hand threading in the left (this should be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the pedal spindle or on the pedal axle), the non-drive side pedal, into the left/non-drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your pedal wrench 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).

20

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

21

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on Derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.
  2. Correct Chain line
  • 21
  • 21a
  • 21b
22

Now it is time to make sure the high limit screw is set so the chain does not fall between the highest gear and the frame. While pedaling the bike, shift rear derailleur to highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Check the adjustment of the high adjustment screw (“H” stamped on the rear derailleur) is set to ensure that the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the highest gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear deraillueurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear derailleur: Here.

OR utilize these links to manufacturers site for instructional PDFs and/or videos:

Sram: Here.

23

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear-right shifter lever (when facing forward on the bike) should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur or at the rear shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link: Rear Derailleur Adjustments Here

  • Rear
  • Rear
  • Shifter
24

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
  • 24a
  • 24b
25

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 25
  • 25a
26

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINKS:

Front derailleur adjustments: Here

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 26
  • 26a
27

Align your bars to the front wheel.

28

Tighten stem cap bolt.

29

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

30

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacturer’s recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

31

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time and make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly

-the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them


-that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback

8711.90.0000http://www.rei.com/product/886432/diamondback-trace-exc-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?14097138475249Web ProfileBlackhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5249/small/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Profile.jpg?1426165300http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5249/medium/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Profile.jpg?1426165300http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5249/large/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Profile.jpg?1426165300http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5249/xlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Profile.jpg?1426165300http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5249/xxlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Profile.jpg?1426165300bike media5250Web ProfileBlackhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5250/small/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Angle.jpg?1426165287http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5250/medium/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Angle.jpg?1426165287http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5250/large/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Angle.jpg?1426165287http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5250/xlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Angle.jpg?1426165287http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5250/xxlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_Angle.jpg?1426165287bike media5816Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5816/small/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_BRAKE.jpg?1426165845http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5816/medium/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_BRAKE.jpg?1426165845http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5816/large/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_BRAKE.jpg?1426165845http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5816/xlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_BRAKE.jpg?1426165845http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5816/xxlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_BRAKE.jpg?1426165845bike media5817Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5817/small/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_DRIVE.jpg?1426165846http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5817/medium/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_DRIVE.jpg?1426165846http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5817/large/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_DRIVE.jpg?1426165846http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5817/xlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_DRIVE.jpg?1426165846http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5817/xxlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_DRIVE.jpg?1426165846bike media5818Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5818/small/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_FORK.jpg?1426165848http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5818/medium/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_FORK.jpg?1426165848http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5818/large/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_FORK.jpg?1426165848http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5818/xlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_FORK.jpg?1426165848http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5818/xxlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_FORK.jpg?1426165848bike media5819Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5819/small/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_RD.jpg?1426165850http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5819/medium/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_RD.jpg?1426165850http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5819/large/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_RD.jpg?1426165850http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5819/xlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_RD.jpg?1426165850http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5819/xxlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_RD.jpg?1426165850bike media5820Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5820/small/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_SADDLE.jpg?1426165852http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5820/medium/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_SADDLE.jpg?1426165852http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5820/large/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_SADDLE.jpg?1426165852http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5820/xlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_SADDLE.jpg?1426165852http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5820/xxlarge/DB_15_TraceEXC_Black_SADDLE.jpg?1426165852bike media7101Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7101/small/trace-exc-gray-angle.jpg?1426989216http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7101/medium/trace-exc-gray-angle.jpg?1426989216http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7101/large/trace-exc-gray-angle.jpg?1426989216http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7101/xlarge/trace-exc-gray-angle.jpg?1426989216http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7101/xxlarge/trace-exc-gray-angle.jpg?1426989216107Diamondback E-Bikes https://youtu.be/d7twLOJnRRELong commutes and trips around town are a lot more fun with electric assist.

You’re a dedicated bike commuter because it’s a time to clear your head, it’s the right thing to do, and any time spent on a bike is just worth it. Some days it’s tougher than others, though. Fatigue, weather, grinding hills that never seem to end. That’s where the Trace EXC comes in. Its 48 volt lithium-ion battery powered electric hub drive motor will have you speeding along, even on those mornings when you missed that first cup of coffee. The 6061-T6 aluminum frame with forged dropouts means you don’t have to worry about long term durability. Eyelets provide easy application of racks and fenders, and the upright geometry stays comfortable for hours. Commuting just got a whole lot cooler.

48 volt lithium-ion battery powered hub drive motor provides an electric assisted boost6061-T6 aluminum alloy frame construction with forged dropouts for durabilityRock Shox XC 30 90" suspension fork is buttery smoothSram 10-speed shifters & derailleurs offer a wide range of gears.Tektro disc brakes for dependable stopping power in all conditionsFrame eyelets let mount rack and fendersTrace 6061-T6 Butted Aluminum Dual Sport Frame w/ Formed Top and Down tube, Forged Drop outs, w/integrated chainstay disc mountSR Suntour NRX-D LO 700c, 75mm Travel, w/ Lock Out System, 30mm Stanchions, Magnesium Lower, Alloy CrownAhead 1 1/8"Alloy 45T w/chainguardJD cartridge w/2 electronic sensors (cadence and torque)Shimano Deore M592 9spd Shadow typeMicroshift 9spdShimano HG30 9spd Cassette (11-34t)KMC Z9936h Alloy w/ CNC Disc Mount14g Stainless SteelDiamondback SL-7 DoublewallSchwalbe Land Cruiser 700x42, Kevlar GuardShimano BR-M375 Disc w/180mm front / 160mm rear RotorsAlloy 4-Finger w/cutoff sensorWellgo Alloy forged, CNC MTBDB Laser Series 31.8mm low riseDiamondback Dual Density Comfort GripDB 3D Forged 7° 31.8mmDB DUAL SPORT Series BlackDB Lazer Series Micro Adjust 27.2mmOwner’s manual, 48V Rear Drive Motor, 48V li-on Battery, 48V 2A Battery Charger, Handlebar Display, H20 bottle mounts, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat2800.02600.01463218" Medium0.00.00.0000.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.01463320" Large0.00.00.0000.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.002-15-406002-15-4061Diamondback1563Podium 700c2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthYouth PodiumYouth Road2016 - Youth - 10-13
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike

1

Begin by carefully cutting through the cardboard bike box with a sharp box cutter or a pair of scissors. Please be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin removing all of the packing material from the frame and detatching the wheel and handlebar by cutting all zipties that may be holding parts together.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.

4

Install seat post into frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it, but this is not necessary. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom). DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS.
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet to assemble bike.

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate, placing the bar in the stem and re-securing the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.

6

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS.

7

Now that your handlebars and seatpost are securely fastened, it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

8

Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Also please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting.

9

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork, Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike which is the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.

10

Once the wheel is in and secure, it’s now time to mount the front brake caliper to the fork. Start by unscrewing the recessed brake bolt from the bolt on the caliper. Insert the caliper bolt through the front of the fork crown and then thread the recessed brake bolt through the back, securing the caliper. The caliper should be approximately centered to the wheel.

11

Run the front brake cable through the barrel adjuster and tighten down the cable tensioner. Once hand tightened, you can then close the quick release lever on the brake caliper to secure the brake. This will shift the brake pads closer to the rim.

12

Once your front brake cable is properly adjusted, cut excess cable off leaving approximately 1.5” of cable and crimp cable end cap to avoid the cable from fraying.

13

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. To do so, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.

14

For pedal installation, we recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing. Next, take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right.

For the non-drive side (or left facing forward on bike) pedal, turn left to tighten.

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product.

15

Now it’s time to inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacture’s recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

16

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that every bolt is tight, that your wheels are secured in place, that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage

2015 - 700c Technology

Diamondback Bicycles - 700c Technology

8712.00.2500http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCUH1SY/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.rei.com/product/876897/diamondback-podium-700-junior-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?1409713847http://www.jensonusa.com/Diamondback/Diamondback-Podium-700C-Bike-2015JENSONUSAhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/39/original/jenson.png?1381956226http://www.backcountry.com/diamondback-podium-700c-complete-road-bike-2016Backcountryhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/48/original/backcountry.png?1383262546http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1164197_-1___400863PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?13832643745179Web ProfileBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5179/small/DB_15_Podium700_blue_profile.jpg?1426111240http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5179/medium/DB_15_Podium700_blue_profile.jpg?1426111240http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5179/large/DB_15_Podium700_blue_profile.jpg?1426111240http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5179/xlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_profile.jpg?1426111240http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5179/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_profile.jpg?1426111240bike media5180Web AngleBluehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5180/small/DB_15_Podium700_blue_angle.jpg?1426111282http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5180/medium/DB_15_Podium700_blue_angle.jpg?1426111282http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5180/large/DB_15_Podium700_blue_angle.jpg?1426111282http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5180/xlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_angle.jpg?1426111282http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5180/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_angle.jpg?1426111282bike media5929Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5929/small/DB_15_Podium700_blue_BRAKE.jpg?1426111311http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5929/medium/DB_15_Podium700_blue_BRAKE.jpg?1426111311http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5929/large/DB_15_Podium700_blue_BRAKE.jpg?1426111311http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5929/xlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_BRAKE.jpg?1426111311http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5929/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_BRAKE.jpg?1426111311bike media5930Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5930/small/DB_15_Podium700_blue_DRIVE.jpg?1426111314http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5930/medium/DB_15_Podium700_blue_DRIVE.jpg?1426111314http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5930/large/DB_15_Podium700_blue_DRIVE.jpg?1426111314http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5930/xlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_DRIVE.jpg?1426111314http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5930/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_DRIVE.jpg?1426111314bike media5931Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5931/small/DB_15_Podium700_blue_FORK.jpg?1426111317http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5931/medium/DB_15_Podium700_blue_FORK.jpg?1426111317http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5931/large/DB_15_Podium700_blue_FORK.jpg?1426111317http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5931/xlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_FORK.jpg?1426111317http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5931/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_FORK.jpg?1426111317bike media5932Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5932/small/DB_15_Podium700_blue_RD.jpg?1426111321http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5932/medium/DB_15_Podium700_blue_RD.jpg?1426111321http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5932/large/DB_15_Podium700_blue_RD.jpg?1426111321http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5932/xlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_RD.jpg?1426111321http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5932/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_RD.jpg?1426111321bike media5933Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5933/small/DB_15_Podium700_blue_SADDLE.jpg?1426111324http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5933/medium/DB_15_Podium700_blue_SADDLE.jpg?1426111324http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5933/large/DB_15_Podium700_blue_SADDLE.jpg?1426111324http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5933/xlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_SADDLE.jpg?1426111324http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5933/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium700_blue_SADDLE.jpg?1426111324bike media7096Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7096/small/podium-youth-series.jpg?1426910180http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7096/medium/podium-youth-series.jpg?1426910180http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7096/large/podium-youth-series.jpg?1426910180http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7096/xlarge/podium-youth-series.jpg?1426910180http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7096/xxlarge/podium-youth-series.jpg?1426910180This smaller bike is a great option for your budding roadie.

The Podium 700 is a junior road bike designed to bring the love of the road to an earlier age. Because not every pre-teen wants a mountain bike, we’ve delivered a road worthy package to get kids out on a similar bike to what their parents might be riding. Built around a 6061 aluminum alloy frame and Junior Aero Alloy straight blade fork, the Podium 700 boasts of a Shimano 8-speed drivetrain with FSA cranks and DB Equation R 700C wheels. Weekend rides with the family? Your first race? Game on!

Need a smaller size? Check out the Podium 650c or 24.

6061 Alloy frame and Junior Aero Alloy straight blade forkShimano 8-speed drivetrain with FSA cranks always ensure smooth shiftingDB Equation R 700C wheelsShimano Claris brakesAlloy drop bar6061 Alloy frame w/replacable hangerJr. Aero Alloy straight blade Steel Steer Tube1 1/8 ThreadlessFSA Tempo Compact, 34/50TSealed MechanismShimano Claris, top pull, 31.10Shimano Claris, 8 spdShimano ClarisShimano 8spd 11-28tKMC HG5232H QR14gDB Equation R 700CChaoyang Viper 700x25CShimamo Claris CaliperShimamo ClarisResinAlloy, 380mm Wide x 100mm DropCork Tape w/ GelDBR 3D Forged, +/- 7 Degree, 31.8Equip SaddleAlloy Micro Adjust 27.2mmOwner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat700.0600.014511Podium 700 42c707.0420.0520.000115.071.074.0977.0410.045.00.00.080.0400.0165.0300.00.00.00.00.014512Podium 700 46c726.0460.0538.000120.072.074.0982.0410.045.00.00.080.0400.0165.0300.00.00.00.00.002-15-500002-15-5001Diamondback1564Podium 6502015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthYouth PodiumYouth Road2016 - Youth - 9-12
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Podium24"/650 Road Bike - Equipped with Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Podium24"/650 Road Bike (Equipped with Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Please be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4, 5, 6mm Allen wrenches.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble your bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes to a bike shop for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.
  4. Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Detach the front wheel by cutting all zip ties holding it on.
  2. Detach the handlebar by cutting all of the zip ties that may be holding parts together. Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.
  3. Then remove all of the packing material from the frame.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
4

Install seat post into frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  2. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position
  3. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 of the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4b
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next remove the stem bolts and faceplate.
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (use an “X” pattern) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

8

Now that your handlebars and seatpost are securely fastened, it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of both sides of the front wheel axle.

9

Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel.

  1. Remove the non-lever side of skewer, as well as one spring, and proceed to insert through the front wheel axle.
  2. Put the spring back on the skewer. Note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of spring points in towards hub and spokes).
  3. Thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
  • 9
  • 9a
  • 9a
  • 9a
  • 9a
  • 9b
  • 9c
10

Mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it):

  1. Insert wheel into front fork. Make sure wheel is centered in fork. Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive/left side (when sitting on the bike).
  2. Once the wheel is in the fork tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. The quick release part of the skewer should be on the non-drive/left side (when sitting on the bike).

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that is hard to close open.
    2. When closed, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  • 10a
  • 10a
  • 10a
  • 10a
  • 10bi
  • 10bi
  • 10bi
  • 10bi
11

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes.

  1. Disconnect the brake lever springs from the lever arms.
  2. Next, grasp brake pad and lever arm in one hand, and loosen brake pad bolt.
  3. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.
  4. Check to make sure both pads are hitting squarely in center of the rim braking surface.
  5. Reconnect the brake lever springs to the brake lever arms.
  • 11a
  • 11b
  • 11c
  • 11c
  • 11d
  • 11d
  • 11e
12

Reconnect the front brake by squeezing both brake lever arms together with one hand. Then pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brank arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

13

To tighten the brake cable tension:

  1. loosen cable anchor bolt
  2. pull the cable to remove excess slack and retighten the cable anchor bolt.
  3. Trim cable and crimp cable cap. There should be 2-3 inches of cable left after trimming.
  4. Install cable end.
  5. Tuck cable away and crimp cable cap to avail the cable unravelling, neatly behind brake lever arm.
  • 13a
  • 13b
  • 13c
  • 13c
  • 13d
  • 13d
  • 13d
  • 13e
14

Do the same for the rear brake as you did for the front as the brake pads may need adjustments.

  1. Release the spring from brake lever arm.
  2. Next, grasp brake pade with one hand and loosen break pad bolt.
  3. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.
  4. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.
15

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm.

16

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, If the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake – surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

17

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten cable anchor bolt.

Note: For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link

18

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each the threads of each pedals thread before installing.

19

Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the spindle or on the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).

20

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

21

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

22

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the lowestr gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 22
  • 22a
  • 22b
23

While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to the highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.

24

Check the adjustment of the high limit screw (“H” stamped on derailleur) to ensure the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the high gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Form Shimano, the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear Derailleur Adjustments

  • 24
  • 24a
  • 24b
25

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional Help Link: Parktool Rear Derailleur Adjustments

26

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or in the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
  • 26a
  • 26b
27

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest) cog in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest cog) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx.. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 27
  • 27a
  • 27b
28

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest (smallest) cog in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit screw (“H” stamped on Derailleur) so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain.

HELPFUL LINK

Parktool Front Derailleur Adjustments

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 28
  • 28a
  • 28b
29

Align your bars to the front wheel.

30

Tighten stem cap bolt.

31

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel, tighten stem bolts.

32

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
  • 32a
  • 32b
33

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

  1. every bolt is tight,
  2. your wheels are secured in place, so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly
  3. the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage

8712.00.2500http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCUH1Z2/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.jensonusa.com/Diamondback/Diamondback-Podium-650C-Bike-2015JENSONUSAhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/39/original/jenson.png?1381956226http://www.competitivecyclist.com/diamondback-podium-650c-youth-road-bike?ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6ZGlhbW9uZGJhY2s6MToxMjpkaWFtb25kYmFjaw&skidn=DMB0014-GRE-S650CCompetitive Cyclisthttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/51/original/competitive-cyclist.png?1394742241http://www.backcountry.com/diamondback-podium-650c-complete-road-bike-2016Backcountryhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/48/original/backcountry.png?1383262546http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1164199_-1___400863PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?13832643746020Web ProfileDark 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When your kid starts making a practice of drafting to get the jump on you before winning the sprint into the driveway, it’s time to consider buying that first road bike. The Podium 650c is full of adult bike features but sized down to get your kid started young.

6061 aluminum alloy frame with replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilityJunior Aero Alloy straight blade fork delivers confidence inspiring handlingShimano 8-speed Shifters and derailleurs provides wide range of gears for growing legs650c wheels roll fast to keep up with mom and dadAlloy drop bar6061 Alloy frame w/replacable hangerJr. Aero Alloy straight blade Alloy SteerTube1 1/8 Threadless165mm Alloy Arm 38/48LooseballShimano Claris, top pull, 31.9Shimano Claris, 8 spdShimano ClarisShimano 8spd 11-28tKMC HG5132H QR14gDB Equation R 650CChaoyang Dolphin 650x23CPromax Mini V brakesShimamo ClarisResinAlloy, 380mm Wide x 100mm DropCork Tape w/ GelAlloy Ahead 60mm, 25.4 Bar BoreJr. Equip SaddleAlloy Micro Adjust 27.2mmOwner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat650.0550.014509650C Jr. Road Bike673.0350.0491.000105.071.074.5948.0395.045.00.00.060.0380.0155.0300.00.00.00.00.002-15-5010Diamondback2343Haanjenn2016Road - Alternative RoadCityRoadPavementHaanjennCommuterAlternative Road2015 - Alternative Road - Womens - XS - LG
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A go-anywhere bike in the truest sense, the versatile HaanJenn can be trusted as a commuter, gravel, or “just getting around” bike. Its women’s-specific aluminum frame and fork put you in a comfortable riding position, more stable than a traditional race bike. A slightly longer wheelbase, big dual sport tires, disc brakes, and comfortable flat handlebars add up to a solid and responsive ride—a balance of durability and speed to handle every surfaced, paved or not. A 2×9 Shimano drivetrain offers a wide range of gears in a simple package, keeping the bike swift and quiet as you negotiate potholes and rough paths. Whether you build it up with fenders and racks as a daily workhorse or keep it stock for exploring paths and dirt roads: the HaanJenn is game.

Women's specific aluminum alloy frame with Endurance Geometry for worry free durability and all day riding comfortGravel Disc alloy fork provides steering precisionShimano Sora 2x9-speed drivetrain w/ FSA cranks provide reliable shifting performanceAvid disc brakes and fat 40c tires for true multi road capabilityFlat handlebars offer a familiar, comfortable riding positionDB Womens Alternative Road, Endurance Geometry, Relaxed head angle, Fully Butted 6061-T6 Alloy Disc Specific frame, Formed Top tube w/ Integrated Tapered HeadtubeDB Gravel Disc, Alloy 1.5" Taper Disc ForkFSA No.42B Sealed 1-1/8"/1.5" ACB IntegratedFSA Gossamer Cross Mega Exo, 46/36TFSA Mega ExoShimano Sora FD-3500, 31.8Shimano Sora RD-3500Shimano Sora SL-3500 Flat Bar 9spdShimano HG-50 Tiagra 9spd (11-32t)KMC Z99Alloy 28h DiscAlloy 28h Disc, Cassette14g Stainless SteelDB Equation CX 28h, 23mm wideKenda Warthog 700x40Avid BB5 Mechanical Disc, 160mm/140mm G2 RotorsAvid FR5Wellgo Alloy RoadDB Flat Bar, 680mm wide,31.8mmDiamondback Dual Density GripDB X-Durance 3D Forged, +/-7° Rise 31.8DB Performance Womens RoadDB X-Durance, Alloy 27.2mmx350mmOwner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mounts1100.0900.029273XS/47cm707.0410.0500.000120.070.075.0996.0430.045.00.074.070.0640.0165.0350.0541.0380.00.00.029274S/50cm731.0440.0510.000130.071.074.5992.0430.045.00.074.080.0640.0170.0350.0554.0376.00.00.029275M/53cm756.0470.0535.000145.071.574.01008.0430.045.00.074.090.0640.0170.0350.0570.0376.00.00.029276L/56cm781.0500.0555.000160.072.073.01018.0430.045.00.074.0100.0640.0172.5350.0586.0381.00.00.002-16-155002-16-155102-16-155202-16-1553Diamondback2344Haanjenn Comp2016Road - Alternative RoadCityRoadPavementHaanjennCommuterAlternative Road2015 - Alternative Road - Womens - XS - LG
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Ride beyond the end of the road on the HaanJenn Comp. This bike is our top of the line women’s alternative road bike, ready for long days of exploration. Its carbon fork soaks up choppy surfaces, and the slightly slack geometry of the aluminum frame and wide drop bars give the stability and control gravel riders seek. With a Shimano 105 drivetrain and disc brakes, smooth shifts and all-season control are always present, no matter how rough the going gets. High-volume Kenda tires on HED wheels are efficient enough for daily commuting yet have the durability to stand up to grand fondos and adventuring on mountain roads. With the HaanJenn Comp, you’ll be prepared for any ride.

Women's specific aluminum alloy frame with Endurance Geometry for worry free durability and all day riding comfortDB Road Disc Carbon Leg, 1.5" Taper Alloy Steerer Disc ForkShimano 105 2x11-speed drivetrain provides great range of gearsTRP disc brakes and all terrain tires on HED wheels for true multi road capabilityWide DB X-duro Flaero drop bars aid in stability and comfortDB Womens Alternative Road, Endurance Geometry, Relaxed head angle, Fully Butted 6061-T6 Alloy Disc Specific frame, Formed Top tube w/Integrated Tapered HeadtubeDB Gravel Disc Carbon Leg, 1.5" Taper Alloy Steerer Disc ForkFSA No.42B Sealed 1-1/8"/1.5" ACB IntegratedFSA Gossamer Cross BB386 Evo, 46/36TFSA BB386 EVOShimano 105 FD-5800, 31.8Shimano 105 RD-5800Shimano 105 ST-5800 Dual Control 11spdShimano CS-5800 105 11spd (11-32t)KMC X11Sealed Cartridge 24h DiscSealed Cartridge 24h Disc Cassette14g Stainless SteelHED Tomcat Disc 24h, 21mm Internal Width, Tubeless ReadyKenda Warthog 700x40TRP Spyre Mechanical Disc, 160mm/140mm RotorsShimano 105 ST-5800 Dual Control 11spdWellgo Alloy RoadDB X-Durance Gravel Bar 31.8, 8 degree flareDB Gel TapeDB X-Durance, 3D Forged, +/-7° Rise 31.8DB Performance Womens RoadDB X-Durance, Alloy 27.2mmx350mmOwner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mounts1600.01300.029277XS/47cm707.0410.0500.000120.070.075.0996.0430.045.00.074.070.0380.0165.0350.0541.0380.00.00.029278S/50cm731.0440.0510.000130.071.074.5992.0430.045.00.074.080.0380.0170.0350.0554.0376.00.00.029279M/53cm756.0470.0535.000145.071.574.01008.0430.045.00.074.090.0400.0170.0350.0570.0376.00.00.029280L/56cm781.0500.0555.000160.072.073.01018.0430.045.00.074.0100.0400.0172.5350.0586.0381.00.00.002-16-154002-16-154102-16-154202-16-1543Diamondback2345Haanjo Tero2016Road - Alternative RoadCityPavementHaanjoCommuter2015 - MTN - SM - XL
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As more and more people take to discovering forgotten routes, we’ve kept pace with a diverse line of alternative road bikes. The Haanjo Tero is the easiest way to expand your riding horizons and break out of the ordinary. We used our Endurance Geometry for the lightweight aluminum frame, increasing stability and riding comfort over what you’d find on a traditional road bike. Because of this, the Haanjo Tero tracks and turns well on all surfaces, from smooth pavement to loose gravel. A 16 speed Shimano drivetrain always has a gear for the terrain, whether it’s mellow or tilted straight up. All-purpose wide tires find grip on everything and work together with disc brakes to deliver confidence and control as you explore over the next rise in the road. And even though it’s gravel grinder at heart, the Haanjo Tero also makes for an excellent commuter.

6061-T6 aluminum alloy frame, fully butted with formed top tubeEndurance Geometry allows you to ride comfortably all dayTektro Mira disc brakes (160/140mm rotors)DB X-Duro Flaero Gravel Bar, 31.8mmDiamondback Gravel Disc steel fork w/fender and low rider mountsDB Alternative Road, Endurance Geometry, Relaxed head angle, Fully Butted 6061-T6 Alloy Disc Specific frame, Formed Top tubeDB Urban Disc, Steel 1-1/8" Steerer, w/ Fender Mounts, Low Rider MountsFSA IS-3E Integrated Drop-in ACB 1 1/8"Alloy Cross Compact, 46/34TSealed CartridgeShimano Claris FD-2400, 31.8Shimano Claris RD-2400, 8 spdShimano Claris SL-2400 8spdShimano HG50 8spd (11-32t)KMC Z82Alloy 28h DiscAlloy 28h Disc Cassette14g Stainless SteelDB Equation CX 28hKenda Happy Medium 700x40Tektro Mira Mechanical Disc, 160/140mm RotorsShimano Claris ST-2400 Dual Control 8spdWellgo Alloy RoadDB X-Durance Gravel Bar 31.8, 8degree flareDB Gel TapeDB X-Durance, 3D Forged, +/-7° Rise 31.8DB EldoradoDB X-Durance, Alloy 27.2x350mmOwner’s Manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mounts900.0700.029302SM/50cm751.0500.0525.000130.069.074.51024.0430.045.00.070.080.0680.0170.0350.0546.0376.00.00.029303M/53cm781.0530.0540.000155.070.073.51022.0430.045.00.070.090.0680.0172.5350.0573.0375.00.00.029304L/56cm807.0560.0560.000175.071.072.51032.0430.045.00.070.0100.0680.0172.5350.0593.0378.00.00.029305XL/59cm836.0590.0580.000200.072.072.01043.0430.045.00.070.0110.0680.0175.0350.0620.0390.00.00.002-16-149002-16-149102-16-149202-16-1493Diamondback2352El Oso Nino 202016Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainPavementYouth 202016 - Youth - 6-10
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The appeal of a fat bike is undeniable: the instant you see one, you just gotta ride it! El Oso Nino is our smallest fat bike, made for kids who want to monster truck over everything in their path. This little bear’s frame and fork are made from hi-tensile steel, tough enough for life in the neighborhood and the woods. It’s got a seven-speed Shimano grip shifter to charge up hills, and powerful disc brakes for controlled descents and stopping. But the focal point of the bike is definitely its wheels and tires—and yes, they really are as cool as they look! Four-inch-wide tires sit atop 20” wheels, making for a unique style and ride. Low tire pressure allows the bike to grab every bit of traction available, with extra float for soft surfaces and sand. It’s very possible El Oso Nino would work on the Moon—what do you think?

Hi-ten steel frame and fork for durabilityDiamondback Jr Fat 20" wheels with 4.0" wide tiresShimano 7-speed drivetrain w/gripshifterDisc brakes with 160mm rotorsMore traction than any bike you've ever ridden!20" Hi-Ten Steel Junior Fat Bike, for disc brake only20" Hi-Ten Steel Junior RigidThreadlessSteel 152mm w/ 40t RingSquare Taper - 5pcShimano Tourney 7 SpeedShimano RS-35 Grip ShiftKMC 7 SpeedSteel Fat Bike Loose Ball, Bolt onSteel Fat Bike Loose Ball, Bolt on, Freewheel14GDiamondback Jr Fat 20"Chaoyang 20x4.0"160mm Mechanical DiscAlloy w/ Reach Adjust9/16" ResinAlloy 22.2KratonAhead 90mm ExtensionJr Mtn PaddedSteel 27.2mmOwners Manual550.0450.029264Boys/20"576.0272.0508.000115.071.070.0927.0380.045.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00.002-16-5120Diamondback1846Serios S2015Road - Triathlon/TTPavementSerios2015 - ROAD - SERIOS
Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Guide

Fit is one of the most important elements of bicycle design. An optimized position is the perfect combination of aerodynamics, power output, and sustainability. Often riders focus on just one or two elements instead of all three, leading to a less than optimized fit. The Diamondback Serios Fit Guide is designed to provide you with all the information and steps needed to determine your best fit.

SELECTING A SIZE

Generally, we see two different types of customers purchasing a Serios bike:

  1. First time TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a road bike and are now purchasing their first TT/Tri bike
  2. Experienced TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a TT/Tri bike, and are now replacing it with a Serios

Regardless of which category you fall into, the Serios Fit Guide can help you determine the best frame size for your needs.

FIRST-TIME TT/TRI BUYERS

When purchasing your first TT/Tri bike, the most general way is to base the Serios frame size on your existing road bike. Most riders tend to use the same size TT/Tri frame as their road frame. Below is chart that can help you select an appropriate size.

Diamondback Serios Bike first time buyers

EXPERIENCED TT/TRI BUYERS

If you are an experienced rider and are upgrading your current TT/Tri bike, it is best to start is with your current fit. First determine the Pad Stack and Pad Reach of your current TT/Tri bike. To do this, you will need your current TT/Tri bike, a pencil, tape measure.

Diamondback Serios Bike experienced buyers

Determining your Pad Stack and Pad Reach:

  • To determine your Pad Stack ©, you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Height (A) – The distance from the ground to the top of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Height (B) – The distance from the center of the BB to the outer edge of rear wheel: ____ mm
    3. Pad Stack ©=A – B=____ mm
  • To determine your Pad Reach (F), you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Distance (D) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Distance (E) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the BB: ____ mm
    3. Pad Reach (F)=____ mm

Once you have determined your current pad stack and pad reach, refer to our fit-grid to determine the best frame size for you.

For any questions regarding your frame size and fit, please contact DIAMONDBACK SUPPORT

Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Grid

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Bottom Bracket (BB):Connects the drive side & non-drive side cranks to each other & the frame.
Pad(s):The padded cups atop the handlebars that are designed to support the rider’s elbows while in an aerodynamic position.
Pad Stack:The vertical distance from the CENTER of bottom bracket to the top of the pads.
Pad Reach:The horizontal distance from the CENTER of the bottom bracket to the CENTER of the pads.

Achieving your Fit Coordinates

After you have calculated your Pad Stack and Pad Reach, you can achieve your fit using a combination of the provided stem spacers and/or HED aerobar risers (available from HED Cycling). The stem spacers have a total of 50mm of stack range and the HED risers have 24mm of stack range.

PAD STACK

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame StackLow PadHigh Pad
50/SM/XS501mm560mm646mm
54/MD532mm591mm678mm
56/LG552mm611mm698mm
58/XL572mm632mm718mm
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 10
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 15
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 20
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 25
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 30
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 35
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 40
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 45
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 50
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 62
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 74

PAD REACH

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame ReachShort PadLong Pad
50/SM/XS395mm431mm496mm
54/MD408mm446mm511mm
56/LG421mm468mm533mm
58/XL434mm492mm557mm

The Pad Reach range is 25mm and is achieved through the use of the mounting holes on the arm rest pads. Further Reach combinations can be achieved by substituting a different length stem. The mounting diameters are industry standard Ø28.6mm at the fork steerer and Ø31.8mm at the aerobar.

Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach +12.5
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach -12.5

Geometry Table

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Serios Launchbike additional mediaAn affordable time trial/triathlon superbike: the same carbon frame and fork as its Serios siblings.

Hardly an entry TT bike model, the Serios S sports the same advanced carbon frame and fork as its superbike siblings. Unidirectional fibers allow for the lightest and most responsive frame possible, giving nimble and solid ride characteristics. The straight line speed of this bike is eclipsed only by its ability to corner. Adaptable fit (comfortable for every rider on the Optum pro team—from 5’6” to 6’4”) ensures you’ll be concentrating on your cadence instead of a fatiguing body position. Outfitted with full Shimano 105 components and HED wheels, this is the most affordable Fastest Bike on the Planet. Be confident your bike is up to the task.

Serios Aero TimeTrial FramesetDiamondback Serios Aero ForkSerios Aero TimeTrial Frameset, Unidirectional Carbon, 1-3/8" Taper,Diamondback Serios Aero Fork, Unidirectional Carbon,1-3/8" TaperFSA IS-2-138Shimano 105, FC-5800 53/39T, 11spPRAXIS PF30-Shimano ConversionShimano 105, FD-5800, 11sp, Braze-onShimano 105, RD-5800, 11spShimano Dura Ace Bar End, SL-BSR1, 11spShimano 105, CS-5800 11sp, 11-25TKMC X11LHED Sealed Cartridge 20hHED Sealed Cartridge 24h Cassette14g Stainless SteelHED Flanders C2+, 20h/24hContinental Ultra Sport II 700x23Shimano 105 BR-5810 Direct MountTRP 879Resin Test Ride PedalVision TriMax Base Bar 42cm w/TriMax Pro Aero Clip-on R-BendDBR Race tape w/GelDB 3D Forged,31.8mm, 7°ISM Prologue w/Steel RailsDB TT Aero Carbon w/Ritchey Seat ClampFront Derailluer Hanger, Rear Derailluer Hanger, 2x/10mm Aero Headset Spacer, 2x/15mm Aero Headset Spacer, TOP TUBE GEL PACK BAG.3500.01459350/XS/SM742.2514.20.000103.472.577.0974.3400.045.00.065.095.0400.0170.0270.0501.0395.10.00.01459454/MD763.1545.60.000124.972.577.0992.0400.045.00.075.095.0400.0172.5270.0531.6408.00.00.01459556/LG783.5566.10.000145.972.577.01010.8400.045.00.075.0105.0400.0172.5270.0551.6420.60.00.01459658/XL804.5587.10.000167.472.577.01030.3400.045.00.075.0115.0400.0175.0350.0572.1433.50.00.002-15-156002-15-156102-15-156202-15-1563Diamondback1847Serios F2015Road - Triathlon/TTPavementSerios2015 - ROAD - SERIOS
Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Guide

Fit is one of the most important elements of bicycle design. An optimized position is the perfect combination of aerodynamics, power output, and sustainability. Often riders focus on just one or two elements instead of all three, leading to a less than optimized fit. The Diamondback Serios Fit Guide is designed to provide you with all the information and steps needed to determine your best fit.

SELECTING A SIZE

Generally, we see two different types of customers purchasing a Serios bike:

  1. First time TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a road bike and are now purchasing their first TT/Tri bike
  2. Experienced TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a TT/Tri bike, and are now replacing it with a Serios

Regardless of which category you fall into, the Serios Fit Guide can help you determine the best frame size for your needs.

FIRST-TIME TT/TRI BUYERS

When purchasing your first TT/Tri bike, the most general way is to base the Serios frame size on your existing road bike. Most riders tend to use the same size TT/Tri frame as their road frame. Below is chart that can help you select an appropriate size.

Diamondback Serios Bike first time buyers

EXPERIENCED TT/TRI BUYERS

If you are an experienced rider and are upgrading your current TT/Tri bike, it is best to start is with your current fit. First determine the Pad Stack and Pad Reach of your current TT/Tri bike. To do this, you will need your current TT/Tri bike, a pencil, tape measure.

Diamondback Serios Bike experienced buyers

Determining your Pad Stack and Pad Reach:

  • To determine your Pad Stack ©, you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Height (A) – The distance from the ground to the top of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Height (B) – The distance from the center of the BB to the outer edge of rear wheel: ____ mm
    3. Pad Stack ©=A – B=____ mm
  • To determine your Pad Reach (F), you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Distance (D) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Distance (E) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the BB: ____ mm
    3. Pad Reach (F)=____ mm

Once you have determined your current pad stack and pad reach, refer to our fit-grid to determine the best frame size for you.

For any questions regarding your frame size and fit, please contact DIAMONDBACK SUPPORT

Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Grid

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Bottom Bracket (BB):Connects the drive side & non-drive side cranks to each other & the frame.
Pad(s):The padded cups atop the handlebars that are designed to support the rider’s elbows while in an aerodynamic position.
Pad Stack:The vertical distance from the CENTER of bottom bracket to the top of the pads.
Pad Reach:The horizontal distance from the CENTER of the bottom bracket to the CENTER of the pads.

Achieving your Fit Coordinates

After you have calculated your Pad Stack and Pad Reach, you can achieve your fit using a combination of the provided stem spacers and/or HED aerobar risers (available from HED Cycling). The stem spacers have a total of 50mm of stack range and the HED risers have 24mm of stack range.

PAD STACK

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame StackLow PadHigh Pad
50/SM/XS501mm560mm646mm
54/MD532mm591mm678mm
56/LG552mm611mm698mm
58/XL572mm632mm718mm
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 10
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 15
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 20
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 25
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 30
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 35
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 40
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 45
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 50
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 62
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 74

PAD REACH

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame ReachShort PadLong Pad
50/SM/XS395mm431mm496mm
54/MD408mm446mm511mm
56/LG421mm468mm533mm
58/XL434mm492mm557mm

The Pad Reach range is 25mm and is achieved through the use of the mounting holes on the arm rest pads. Further Reach combinations can be achieved by substituting a different length stem. The mounting diameters are industry standard Ø28.6mm at the fork steerer and Ø31.8mm at the aerobar.

Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach +12.5
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach -12.5

Geometry Table

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media6886Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6886/small/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-01.jpg?1426112828http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6886/medium/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-01.jpg?1426112828http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6886/large/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-01.jpg?1426112828http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6886/xlarge/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-01.jpg?1426112828http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6886/xxlarge/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-01.jpg?1426112828bike media6895Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6895/small/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-10.jpg?1426112935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6895/medium/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-10.jpg?1426112935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6895/large/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-10.jpg?1426112935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6895/xlarge/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-10.jpg?1426112935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6895/xxlarge/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-10.jpg?1426112935bike media90Diamondback Serios Launchbike additional mediaA top flight time trial/triathlon bike that generates half the drag of the competition.

The dark art of aerodynamics doesn’t always follow intuition: when Diamondback teamed with industry experts HED and KQ Studios to design the Serios F, they ended up with revolutionary profiles that produce only half the drag of competitors’ bikes. A champ in the wind tunnel, it’s outside where it excels. In the real world of crosswinds and corners, this bike outperforms all others.

The Serios F frame is a worthy centerpiece. It is constructed with unidirectional carbon, unparalleled in power transfer and comfort. With unique headset spacers, it’s able to fit every body shape: able to keep the entire Optum pro team comfortable, so they can concentrate on going faster than ever before. The geometry is that of a bike that handles: up, down, around hairpins—conditions you’ll actually encounter in a time trial or triathlon. Featuring a full Shimano Ultegra group and HED wheels, it is ready for race day. When every second counts, look to the Serios F to deliver.

HED Corsair BarHED Jet 5 Express WheelsetFull Shimano Ultegra Di2 11sp GroupFull Shimano Ultegra Di2 11sp GroupHED Corsair BarHED Jet 5 WheelsetSerios Aero TimeTrial Frameset, Unidirectional Carbon, 1-3/8" Taper,Diamondback Serios Aero Fork, Unidirectional Carbon,1-3/8" TaperFSA IS-2-138Shimano Ultegra FC-6800 53/39T, 11spPRAXIS PF30-Shimano ConversionShimano Ultegra Di2 FD-6870, 11sp Braze-onShimano Ultegra Di2 RD-6870, 11spShimano Di2 SW-R671, Remote 2 Button Bar End ShifterShimano Ultegra CS-6800 11sp, 11-25TShimano Ultegra CN-6800HED Jet 5 Express Front 18 H SCT Clincher 700HED Jet 5 Express Rear 24 H SCT Shimano Clincher 700HED JET 5 EXPRESSContinental Grandprix 4000 S II. 700x23Shimano Ultegra BR-6810 Direct MountHED Corsair IntergratedResin Test Ride PedalHED Corsair Bar 42cm Flat 31.8 w/Carbon Lazy S BendDBR Race tape w/GelDB TT with full Hed Corsair Integration.ISM Prologue w/Cromo RailsDB TT Aero Carbon w/Ritchey Seat ClampFront Derailluer Hanger, Rear Derailluer Hanger, 2x/10mm Aero Headset Spacer, 2x/15mm Aero Headset Spacer, TOP TUBE GEL PACK BAG7500.01458950/XS/SM742.2514.20.000103.472.577.0974.3400.045.00.065.095.0400.0170.0270.0501.0395.10.00.01459054/MD763.1545.60.000124.972.577.0992.0400.045.00.075.095.0400.0172.5270.0531.6408.00.00.01459156/LG783.5566.10.000145.972.577.01010.8400.045.00.075.0105.0400.0172.5270.0551.6420.60.00.01459258/XL804.5587.10.000167.472.577.01030.3400.045.00.075.0115.0400.0175.0350.0572.1433.50.00.002-15-154002-15-154102-15-154202-15-1543Diamondback1848Serios AF Frameset2015Road - Triathlon/TTPavementSerios2015 - ROAD - SERIOS
Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Guide

Fit is one of the most important elements of bicycle design. An optimized position is the perfect combination of aerodynamics, power output, and sustainability. Often riders focus on just one or two elements instead of all three, leading to a less than optimized fit. The Diamondback Serios Fit Guide is designed to provide you with all the information and steps needed to determine your best fit.

SELECTING A SIZE

Generally, we see two different types of customers purchasing a Serios bike:

  1. First time TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a road bike and are now purchasing their first TT/Tri bike
  2. Experienced TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a TT/Tri bike, and are now replacing it with a Serios

Regardless of which category you fall into, the Serios Fit Guide can help you determine the best frame size for your needs.

FIRST-TIME TT/TRI BUYERS

When purchasing your first TT/Tri bike, the most general way is to base the Serios frame size on your existing road bike. Most riders tend to use the same size TT/Tri frame as their road frame. Below is chart that can help you select an appropriate size.

Diamondback Serios Bike first time buyers

EXPERIENCED TT/TRI BUYERS

If you are an experienced rider and are upgrading your current TT/Tri bike, it is best to start is with your current fit. First determine the Pad Stack and Pad Reach of your current TT/Tri bike. To do this, you will need your current TT/Tri bike, a pencil, tape measure.

Diamondback Serios Bike experienced buyers

Determining your Pad Stack and Pad Reach:

  • To determine your Pad Stack ©, you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Height (A) – The distance from the ground to the top of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Height (B) – The distance from the center of the BB to the outer edge of rear wheel: ____ mm
    3. Pad Stack ©=A – B=____ mm
  • To determine your Pad Reach (F), you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Distance (D) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Distance (E) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the BB: ____ mm
    3. Pad Reach (F)=____ mm

Once you have determined your current pad stack and pad reach, refer to our fit-grid to determine the best frame size for you.

For any questions regarding your frame size and fit, please contact DIAMONDBACK SUPPORT

Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Grid

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Bottom Bracket (BB):Connects the drive side & non-drive side cranks to each other & the frame.
Pad(s):The padded cups atop the handlebars that are designed to support the rider’s elbows while in an aerodynamic position.
Pad Stack:The vertical distance from the CENTER of bottom bracket to the top of the pads.
Pad Reach:The horizontal distance from the CENTER of the bottom bracket to the CENTER of the pads.

Achieving your Fit Coordinates

After you have calculated your Pad Stack and Pad Reach, you can achieve your fit using a combination of the provided stem spacers and/or HED aerobar risers (available from HED Cycling). The stem spacers have a total of 50mm of stack range and the HED risers have 24mm of stack range.

PAD STACK

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame StackLow PadHigh Pad
50/SM/XS501mm560mm646mm
54/MD532mm591mm678mm
56/LG552mm611mm698mm
58/XL572mm632mm718mm
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 10
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 15
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 20
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 25
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 30
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 35
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 40
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 45
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 50
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 62
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 74

PAD REACH

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame ReachShort PadLong Pad
50/SM/XS395mm431mm496mm
54/MD408mm446mm511mm
56/LG421mm468mm533mm
58/XL434mm492mm557mm

The Pad Reach range is 25mm and is achieved through the use of the mounting holes on the arm rest pads. Further Reach combinations can be achieved by substituting a different length stem. The mounting diameters are industry standard Ø28.6mm at the fork steerer and Ø31.8mm at the aerobar.

Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach +12.5
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach -12.5

Geometry Table

7194Web ProfileSilver/Blackhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7194/small/DB16-SeriosAF-Silver-Frameset.jpg?1430865544http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7194/medium/DB16-SeriosAF-Silver-Frameset.jpg?1430865544http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7194/large/DB16-SeriosAF-Silver-Frameset.jpg?1430865544http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7194/xlarge/DB16-SeriosAF-Silver-Frameset.jpg?1430865544http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7194/xxlarge/DB16-SeriosAF-Silver-Frameset.jpg?1430865544bike media7195Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7195/small/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-08.jpg?1432743054http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7195/medium/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-08.jpg?1432743054http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7195/large/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-08.jpg?1432743054http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7195/xlarge/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-08.jpg?1432743054http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7195/xxlarge/DB15-Tri-TT-Serios-08.jpg?1432743054bike mediaBuild up your dream time trial/triathlon bike, starting with this amazing frameset.

The goal of the project was clear: Diamondback collaborated with HED and KQ Studios to create the fastest TT bike ever. It needed to be able to fit the entire Optum pro team. It needed to cut not only through the air, but the skepticism surrounding a new entrant to the field. Success in other disciplines isn’t enough to win over the aero crowd: a frame would need to be outstanding. Our engineers had great success with new shapes: stats from the wind tunnel sessions were remarkable, with results showing drag numbers being half that of the competition. Good for the sanitized environment of the lab, but races take place outside. This bike needed to ride well, too. The carbon fibers of the tubes are laid unidirectionally, giving maximum strength and responsiveness, and the geometry allows the frame to blaze through U-turns.

Fast, nimble, rideable: the Serios AF ticks all these boxes and more. Coupled with HED Corsair bars, this frameset is the backbone of the ultimate TT/triathlon bike.

Serios Aero TimeTrial Frameset, Unidirectional Carbon, 1-3/8" Taper,Diamondback Serios Aero Fork, Unidirectional Carbon,1-3/8" TaperFSA IS-2-138Shimano Dura Ace BR-9010 Direct MountHED Corsair IntergratedHED Corsair Bar 42cm Flat 31.8 w/Carbon Lazy S BendDB TT with full Hed Corsair Integration.DB TT Aero Carbon w/Ritchey Seat ClampFront Derailluer Hanger, Rear Derailluer Hanger, 2x 10mm Aero Headset Spacer, 2x 15mm Aero Headset Spacer.4500.01458550/XS/SM742.2514.20.000103.472.577.0974.3400.045.00.065.095.0400.0170.0270.0501.0395.10.00.01458654/MD763.1545.60.000124.972.577.0992.0400.045.00.075.095.0400.0172.5270.0531.6408.00.00.01458756/LG783.5566.10.000145.972.577.01010.8400.045.00.075.0105.0400.0172.5270.0551.6420.60.00.01458858/XL804.5587.10.000167.472.577.01030.3400.045.00.075.0115.0400.0175.0350.0572.1433.50.00.031-15-202031-15-202131-15-202231-15-2023Diamondback1382Mission Pro2015Mountain - All MountainMountainFull Suspension2015 - MTN - SM - XL
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Hydraulic Disc Brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

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  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the front wheel by cutting the zipties holding it to bike.
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting any zipties/removing any packaging.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so. Then carefully remove all of the packing material from the frame.

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  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  5. If you are assembling a 2015 Sortie 3, Mason Pro, Mission 2 or Mission Pro please check the dropper seat post manufacturer’s website for proper instructions on how to install that post.
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5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next, remove the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
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  • 6c
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned correctly and symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. (use an “X” pattern for four bolt stems) The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

8

Install Rear Brake Cable Clamp

9

Set up of front (and rear) disc brakes:

  1. Make sure cable is run correctly along fork – ensure that the fork is in the correct position (the fork arch should be pointing forward, not towards the rear of the bike).

    1. Front cable should run in front of derailleur and rear brake cables.
    2. Run cable thru fork guide
    3. Run cable/caliper along inside of fork
  2. Install Front Caliper

    1. Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
    2. Bottom Bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
  3. Leave a little play in caliper, do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
  4. Leave caliper block in! (This is the piece of plastic between the caliper pads. It is a good idea to keep this piece of plastic so you can use it whenever the front wheel is not on the bike.)

Many of the mountain bikes will come with the front disc caliper installed. For set up and fine tuning adjustments specific to your model of brakes refer to the manufacturer’s installation guides for set up and adjustment.

AVID XO, Elixir 1 & 5, DB 1

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  • 9aii
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  • 9bi
  • 9bii
  • 9c
  • 9c
  • 9d
10

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the disc/axle.

11

Some bikes may come with the front disc not installed on the wheel. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking. Prepare to install the front disc rotor. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you’ll want to secure the rotor to the wheel using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a direction arrow.

All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.

12

Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure fork is in the correct position before mounting wheel (fork arch should be pointing forward):

  1. If your bike comes with a standard quick release lever: The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs (smaller part of the spring points in towards the hub and spokes) and make sure that there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Insert skewer thru hub axle. Place spring on skewer and then tighten skewer nut a few turns. Proceed to step 13. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
  2. For bikes with a thru axle – please refer to attached guide from FOX on correct procedure when installing your front wheel with a thru axle system: Fox Thru Axle Instructions Here. Proceed to step 13.
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  • 12b
13

Some tires will have a directional arrow indicating which way the tire should rotate. If the tire does please make sure the tire will be spinning in the correct direction once on the bike.

14

Make sure you remove the block spacer from front hydraulic brake caliper. DO NOT SQUEEZE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WITHOUT BLOCK OR WHEEL WITH DISC INSTALLED.

15

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure disc sits in between caliper pads and the tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that hard to close or open.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  2. Thru Axle

    1. Install Wheel, disc/caliper alignment
    2. Insert Thru Axle and tighten
    3. Close lever
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  • 15b
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16

Complete Front Brake set up.

  1. Squeeze front brake lever – do not squeeze brake lever if the wheel and caliper are not installed.
  2. While holding the front brake lever, alternate tightening the top and bottom caliper bolts, until tight to manufacturer’s specifications.
  3. Spin wheel to make sure disc passes between caliper brake pads.
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  • 16b
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17

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

18

Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter clockwise)

19

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

20

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so it hits the stop so that derailleur cannot shift past that gear and into rear wheel spokes.
  2. Correct chain line
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  • 20b
21

While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to highest gear(smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that High adjustment screw (“H” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop so the derailleur cannot shift the chain past that gear and into the bike frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacture’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear derailleur adjustments

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  • 21b
22

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear/right shifter should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link:

Parktool Rear Derailleur

23

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure the chain is sitting on th smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
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  • 23b
24

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back and the small chainring on the cranks.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 24
  • 24a
25

To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the largest chainring.

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 25
  • 25a
  • 25b
26

Align your bars to the front wheel.

27

Tighten stem cap bolt.

28

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

29

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
30

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly

-the handlebars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

-your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

For those with air forks or shocks: It’s highly recommended that you see your fork manufacturers set up instructions online prior to suspension set up. Fox Tuning Tips

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

2015 - Mission Technology

Diamondback Bicycles - Mission Technology

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media7041Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7041/small/mission-angle-crop.jpg?1426108935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7041/medium/mission-angle-crop.jpg?1426108935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7041/large/mission-angle-crop.jpg?1426108935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7041/xlarge/mission-angle-crop.jpg?1426108935http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7041/xxlarge/mission-angle-crop.jpg?1426108935872015 Mission 27.5bike mediabike additional media5Maximhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/outlets/14/medium/maxim_logo_NewCol.jpg?1426701203MAXIM BIKE EMPORIUM: TAME THE TRAIL ON DIAMONDBACK'S MISSION PRO 27.5It's mountain biking's big moment. Here's how to make the most of it. Call it the peak rush: more riders are hitting the mountains than ever before. And not just serious cyclists- everyone from celebrities to Silicon Valley entrepreneurs is taking two wheels to the trails. Maximhttp://www.diamondback.com/Data/Sites/12/media/media-hits/1409/Diamondback-Bicycles-Decline-Maxim.pdf://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/image/5/medium/maxim-logo.jpg?14267986142015-03-196Nsmbhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/outlets/21/medium/nsmb_logo.jpg?1426701372NSMB COVERS THE MISSION PRO – LONG TERM REVIEWTo Hoon: Hoon is a term used mostly in Australia and New Zealand, to refer to anyone who engages in loutish, anti-social behaviours. In particular it is used to refer to one who drives a car, boat (or mountain bike) in a manner which is anti-social by the standards of contemporary society, i.e. too fast, too noisily or too dangerously.nsmbhttp://nsmb.com/diamondback-mission-pro-long-term-review/://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/image/6/medium/MG_7752.jpg?14267988182015-03-197Bicyclinghttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/outlets/3/medium/bicycling_logo.jpg?1426700986BICYCLING MAG TESTED: DIAMONDBACK MISSION PRO 27.5"I never would have said it if I thought it would really happen. Mere seconds after I quipped, “Wouldn’t it be funny if that bike flew off the rack?” a neon orange Diamondback Mission Pro was hovering 20 feet in the air and traveling about 70 mph on I-70 just west of the Colorado/Utah border. Strong, gusty winds had somehow flicked the bike off the top of the roof rack of the van in front of us, and slammed it down on the freeway. (Note: We were on a press trip and it wasn’t my test bike.) bicyclinghttp://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/new-bike-gear-previews/tested-diamondback-mission-pro://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/image/7/medium/12.5.14-bicycling-mag.jpg?14267989272015-03-198Mtbrhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/outlets/19/medium/MTBR_JUNE07.jpg?1426701313MTBR.COM REVIEWS THE DIAMONDBACK MISSION PRO 27.5 ENDURODiamondback Bicycles released their all new Mission Pro earlier this year and we have had the luxury of riding and testing it for the past several months. We were glad to see this new iteration of their Knucklebox suspension design as we had ridden previous versions (with the triangle shaped linkage) and been somewhat underwhelmed by the previous performance. No such worries now, the new Mission Pro 27.5 is legit and delivers for the rider worthy of really pushing the limits. This is the bike that will help Diamondback build its core mountain bike following up.mtbr.comhttp://reviews.mtbr.com/review-diamondback-mission-pro-27-5-enduro://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/image/8/medium/mtbr-mission-pro-27.5.png?14267992542015-03-199BikeMaghttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/outlets/6/medium/bikemag-logo-2014.jpg?1426701039BIKE MAGAZINE REVIEW'S THE MISSION PRO 27.5Reshaped for the Mission, the new Knucklebox provides the same buttery suspension feel we love in a tighter package. At nearly 32 pounds, you’d expect the 160-millimeter Mission Pro to putter along, sucking the life out of the poor soul pedaling it. Actually, the Mission wears its weight well, scooting up climbs and through undulating trail with surprising ease for a bike designed for downs.bike magazinehttp://www.bikemag.com/gear/review-diamondback-mission-pro-27-5/?sm_id=social_20140930_32556056://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/image/9/medium/9.31.14.jpg?14267992542015-03-1910Outsidehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/outlets/22/medium/outside.jpg?1426701385FIRST LOOK: DIAMONDBACK MISSION PROWe spent an entire day doing lift-served runs at Angel Fire, and the bike was agile and deft even on the steepest, burliest terrain. It isn’t an especially plush ride. The suspension feels hard-edged, like it’s tuned to race. We suppose this makes sense in a way given that the Mission is aimed at the enduro market. And in the end, an aggressive, stiff-feeling bike is generally a good thing when slamming through meaty roots and long rock fields.Outsidehttp://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/gear-shed/cycle-life/First-Look-Diamondback-Mission-Pro.html?271102181&utm_campaign=googlenews&utm_source=googlenews&utm_medium=xmlfeed://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/image/10/medium/DB_15_MissionPro_27.5_RocketRed_Profile-3.jpg?14267994462015-03-1911Mountain Bike Actionhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/outlets/15/medium/MBA.jpg?1426701230SPRING MIGRATION MISSIONThey have taken the triangulated Kuncklebox of old and redesigned it to allow the shock to be moved forward in the frame, so that it now connects to the bike’s downtube instead of the old top tube mount.Mountain Bike Actionhttp://www.diamondback.com/Data/Sites/12/media/mba/screen-shot-2014-07-02-at-11.37.26-am.png://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/image/11/medium/screen-shot-2014-07-02-at-11.17.18-am.png?14267996052015-03-19Our flagship all-mountain bike, it's a billy goat and a steamroller.

Throw a leg over a Mission Pro 27.5 and you will instantly know you’re on a high-level piece of equipment. Packing 160mm of point-and-shoot full suspension travel, this 27.5” wheeled All Mountain bike wants to tear into rough, steep terrain, looking for hits and drops that would have the amateurs searching for a B-line. The KnuckleBox suspension never backs down, and the Shimano XT disc brakes are on hand to make sure things never get too rowdy. The FOX Float CTD suspension reduces pedal induced motion without compromising small bump compliance. When it comes time to pedal again, this platform will deliver you to the top efficiently and comfortably, so you have more energy for another rip back down.

Hand built All Mountain 160mm travel 6061-T6 weapons grade aluminum frame with KnuckleBox suspension is super stiff and ultra durableSingle-sided hardware on the non drive side of the main pivots for easy serviceFOX 34 Float CTD Adjust FIT Kashima air fork and Float X rear shock is a staple for all mountain ridingSRAM X01 1x11-speed drivetrain is ideal for All Mountain ridingEaston Haven wheelset is stiff and light.RaceFace Next Carbon crank and narrowwide rig is the lightest on the marketShimano XT hydraulic disc brakesUpgrades over Mission Two 27.5FOX Float CTD Kashima coat front and rear suspensionSRAM X01 1x11-speed drivetrainShimano XT hydraulic disc brakesEaston Haven UST wheelsRockShox Reverb Stealth seatpostMission All Mountain 27.5, 160mm 6061-T6 Weapons Grade Aluminum w/Hydroformed Top Tube, Butted / Formed Down Tube / Seatstays, Under Arch Seatstay bridge, Tapered Head Tube Knuckle Box Technology, ISCG 05, 142x12mm E-Thru Axle Drop outFox Float X, CTD adjust, Kashima, "LV" eyelet, 8.5x2.5" Air, DB Mission Spec, w/rebound adj, w/Climb, Trail, Descend, w/3 levels pedal platformFox 34 Float CTD adjust FIT, Kashima, 160mm travel, w/ ext. rebound, butted Alloy 1.5 Tapered steerer, 34mm Easton aluminum stanchions, magnesium lowers, w/QR15mm Thru AxleFSA No57 Taper 1.5 / 1 1/8" Alloy cups, Sealed CartridgeRaceface Next SL 30T, NarrowWide Single RingRaceface Outboard BearingSRAM X01 X-Horizon, Type 2 11spdSRAM X01 11spd trigger (rear only)SRAM XG-1195 XO 11spd Cassette (10-42t)SRAM PC-XX1 Power LinkEaston HAVEN 24h, 15mm Thru Axle, Alloy Sealed Cartridge Bearing DiscEaston HAVEN 24h, 142x12 Thru Axle, Alloy Sealed Cartridge Bearing Disc, SRAM Compatable 11spd Driver, w/ Shimano E-thru QR AxleEaston SAPIM butted SpokesEaston HAVEN 24h, 27.5" Clincher - USTSchwalbe Hans Dampf 27.5x2.35, folding, tubeless ready, snakeskin sidewall, TSC compoundShimano XT M785 Hydraulic Disc, Rotors - XT ICE 6-bolt, 180mm Front/180mm RearShimano XT M785 with reach adjDB Platform CNC, w/replaceable pins, sealed cartidge bearingRaceface Atlas 785mm riser bar 31.8mmDB4L "Lock on" 135mm KratonRaceface Atlas,50mm 31.8mmDB Race M-series saddle w/hollow ti alloy railsRockShox Reverb Stealth Dropper 30.9mmKnuckle Box Shock Pump, , Owner’s manual / Mission owner's manual cover, Chainstay Protector, H20 bottle mounts6500.06000.01446715.5" Small30.015.022.000105.066.573.01134.0451.044.0342.02.050.0785.0170.0420.0589.0380.00.00.01446817" Medium30.517.023.000105.066.573.01159.0451.044.0342.02.050.0785.0175.0420.0589.0404.00.00.01446919" Large31.519.024.000120.066.573.01176.0451.044.0342.02.050.0785.0175.0420.0604.0416.00.00.01447021" XLarge32.021.025.000140.066.573.01198.0451.044.0342.02.050.0785.0175.0420.0622.0430.00.00.002-15-205002-15-205102-15-205202-15-2053Diamondback1383Mission 12015Mountain - All MountainMountainFull Suspension2015 - MTN - SM - XL
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Hydraulic Disc Brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the front wheel by cutting the zipties holding it to bike.
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting any zipties/removing any packaging.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so. Then carefully remove all of the packing material from the frame.

  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  5. If you are assembling a 2015 Sortie 3, Mason Pro, Mission 2 or Mission Pro please check the dropper seat post manufacturer’s website for proper instructions on how to install that post.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next, remove the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6c
  • 6c
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned correctly and symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. (use an “X” pattern for four bolt stems) The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

8

Install Rear Brake Cable Clamp

9

Set up of front (and rear) disc brakes:

  1. Make sure cable is run correctly along fork – ensure that the fork is in the correct position (the fork arch should be pointing forward, not towards the rear of the bike).

    1. Front cable should run in front of derailleur and rear brake cables.
    2. Run cable thru fork guide
    3. Run cable/caliper along inside of fork
  2. Install Front Caliper

    1. Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
    2. Bottom Bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
  3. Leave a little play in caliper, do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
  4. Leave caliper block in! (This is the piece of plastic between the caliper pads. It is a good idea to keep this piece of plastic so you can use it whenever the front wheel is not on the bike.)

Many of the mountain bikes will come with the front disc caliper installed. For set up and fine tuning adjustments specific to your model of brakes refer to the manufacturer’s installation guides for set up and adjustment.

AVID XO, Elixir 1 & 5, DB 1

  • 9ai
  • 9aii
  • 9aii
  • 9aiii
  • 9bi
  • 9bii
  • 9c
  • 9c
  • 9d
10

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the disc/axle.

11

Some bikes may come with the front disc not installed on the wheel. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking. Prepare to install the front disc rotor. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you’ll want to secure the rotor to the wheel using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a direction arrow.

All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.

12

Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure fork is in the correct position before mounting wheel (fork arch should be pointing forward):

  1. If your bike comes with a standard quick release lever: The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs (smaller part of the spring points in towards the hub and spokes) and make sure that there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Insert skewer thru hub axle. Place spring on skewer and then tighten skewer nut a few turns. Proceed to step 13. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
  2. For bikes with a thru axle – please refer to attached guide from FOX on correct procedure when installing your front wheel with a thru axle system: Fox Thru Axle Instructions Here. Proceed to step 13.
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12b
13

Some tires will have a directional arrow indicating which way the tire should rotate. If the tire does please make sure the tire will be spinning in the correct direction once on the bike.

14

Make sure you remove the block spacer from front hydraulic brake caliper. DO NOT SQUEEZE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WITHOUT BLOCK OR WHEEL WITH DISC INSTALLED.

15

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure disc sits in between caliper pads and the tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that hard to close or open.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  2. Thru Axle

    1. Install Wheel, disc/caliper alignment
    2. Insert Thru Axle and tighten
    3. Close lever
  • 15a
  • 15a
  • 15ai
  • 15aii
  • 15aiii
  • 15b
  • 15bi
  • 15bi
  • 15bii
  • 15bii
  • 15biii
  • 15biii
  • 15biii
16

Complete Front Brake set up.

  1. Squeeze front brake lever – do not squeeze brake lever if the wheel and caliper are not installed.
  2. While holding the front brake lever, alternate tightening the top and bottom caliper bolts, until tight to manufacturer’s specifications.
  3. Spin wheel to make sure disc passes between caliper brake pads.
  • 16a
  • 16b
  • 16b
17

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

18

Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter clockwise)

19

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

20

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so it hits the stop so that derailleur cannot shift past that gear and into rear wheel spokes.
  2. Correct chain line
  • 20
  • 20a
  • 20b
21

While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to highest gear(smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that High adjustment screw (“H” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop so the derailleur cannot shift the chain past that gear and into the bike frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacture’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear derailleur adjustments

  • 21
  • 21a
  • 21b
22

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear/right shifter should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link:

Parktool Rear Derailleur

23

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure the chain is sitting on th smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
  • 23a
  • 23b
24

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back and the small chainring on the cranks.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 24
  • 24a
25

To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the largest chainring.

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 25
  • 25a
  • 25b
26

Align your bars to the front wheel.

27

Tighten stem cap bolt.

28

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

29

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
30

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly

-the handlebars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

-your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

For those with air forks or shocks: It’s highly recommended that you see your fork manufacturers set up instructions online prior to suspension set up. Fox Tuning Tips

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

2015 - Mission Technology

Diamondback Bicycles - Mission Technology

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Mission 27.5bike mediabike additional mediaEquipped to handle any trail--the Mission 1 will not back down.

The Mission 1 27.5 is a bike designed to unlock the secret world of All Mountain ripping. Do those steep, rocky, and root strewn descents have you second guessing your trail choice? No more. The Mission 1 27.5’s KnuckleBox suspension design drops the center of gravity low in the frame for better cornering and tracking and delivers 160mm of trail taming travel to tackle all of the big hits. 27.5” wheels give you better grip and roll over for a surefooted feel. Of course you’re not just riding down, you also have to go up, and for that the FOX Float CTD air rear shock provides you a solid pedaling platform for uphill efficiency. This, coupled with a Shimano drivetrain and Race Face crankset with single ring, makes for a simple yet effective set up. The result: you get to the top fresher, ready to send it down the other side for a whole lot more fun. Welcome to a new world.

All Mountain 160mm travel 6061-T6 weapons grade aluminum frame with KnuckleBox suspension is super stiff and ultra durableSingle-sided hardware on three main pivot points for easy bearing serviceabilityFOX 32 Float CTD air front and CTD "LV" rear suspension will smooth out any trailShimano SLX Shadow rear derailleur delivers silent, accurate shiftingRace Face Ride 1x Crankset is practical and efficientMission All Mountain 27.5, 160mm 6061-T6 Weapons Grade Aluminum w/Hydroformed Top Tube, Butted / Formed Down Tube / Seatstays, Under Arch Seatstay bridge, Tapered Head Tube Knuckle Box Technology, ISCG 05, 142x12mm E-Thru Axle Drop outFox Float, CTD, "LV" eyelet, 8.5x2.5" Air, DB Mission Spec, w/rebound adj, w/Climb, Trail, Descend, leverFox 32 Float CTD air, 150mm travel, open cartridge, w/ ext. rebound, butted Alloy 1.5 Tapered steerer, 32mm Easton aluminum stanchions, magnesium lowers, w/QR15 Thru AxleFSA No57 Taper 1.5 / 1 1/8"standard cups, Sealed CartridgeRaceface Ride 30T NarrowWide Single RingRaceface Outboard BearingShimano SLX Shadow Plus M675Shimano Deore M610 10sp trigger (rear only)Shimano HG50 10sp Cassette (11-36t)KMC X1032h Alloy Disc w/15mm Thru Axle32h 142x12 sealed cartridge bearing, 12mm Thru Axle, Cassette w/ CNC Disc mount, w/ Shimano E-Thru QR Axle14g Stainless SteelDB AM280 Doublewall Disc, 32hKenda Nevegal 27.5x2.35, w/Stick-E compound, Folding BeadShimano M447 Hydraulic Disc Rotors - 180mm Front/180mm RearShimano M445 w/ reach adj.DB Sound Alloy w/ molded traction pinsDB Laser Bar 740mm width, 30mm rise, 31.8mmDB4L "Lock on" 135mm KratonDB Fifty, 50mm 31.8mmDB Race M-series saddleDB Laser Post 30.9mmOwner’s manual / Mission owner's manual cover, Chainstay Protector, H20 bottle mounts2800.02400.01445915.5" Small30.015.022.000105.066.573.01134.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0170.0350.0589.0380.00.00.01446017" Medium30.517.023.000105.066.573.01159.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0175.0350.0589.0404.00.00.01446119" Large31.519.024.000120.066.573.01176.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0175.0350.0604.0416.00.00.01446221" XLarge32.021.025.000140.066.573.01198.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0175.0350.0622.0430.00.00.002-15-207002-15-207102-15-207202-15-2073Diamondback1384Mission 22015Mountain - All MountainMountainFull Suspension2015 - MTN - SM - XL
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Hydraulic Disc Brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the front wheel by cutting the zipties holding it to bike.
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting any zipties/removing any packaging.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so. Then carefully remove all of the packing material from the frame.

  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  5. If you are assembling a 2015 Sortie 3, Mason Pro, Mission 2 or Mission Pro please check the dropper seat post manufacturer’s website for proper instructions on how to install that post.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next, remove the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6c
  • 6c
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned correctly and symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. (use an “X” pattern for four bolt stems) The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

8

Install Rear Brake Cable Clamp

9

Set up of front (and rear) disc brakes:

  1. Make sure cable is run correctly along fork – ensure that the fork is in the correct position (the fork arch should be pointing forward, not towards the rear of the bike).

    1. Front cable should run in front of derailleur and rear brake cables.
    2. Run cable thru fork guide
    3. Run cable/caliper along inside of fork
  2. Install Front Caliper

    1. Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
    2. Bottom Bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
  3. Leave a little play in caliper, do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
  4. Leave caliper block in! (This is the piece of plastic between the caliper pads. It is a good idea to keep this piece of plastic so you can use it whenever the front wheel is not on the bike.)

Many of the mountain bikes will come with the front disc caliper installed. For set up and fine tuning adjustments specific to your model of brakes refer to the manufacturer’s installation guides for set up and adjustment.

AVID XO, Elixir 1 & 5, DB 1

  • 9ai
  • 9aii
  • 9aii
  • 9aiii
  • 9bi
  • 9bii
  • 9c
  • 9c
  • 9d
10

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the disc/axle.

11

Some bikes may come with the front disc not installed on the wheel. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking. Prepare to install the front disc rotor. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you’ll want to secure the rotor to the wheel using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a direction arrow.

All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.

12

Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure fork is in the correct position before mounting wheel (fork arch should be pointing forward):

  1. If your bike comes with a standard quick release lever: The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs (smaller part of the spring points in towards the hub and spokes) and make sure that there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Insert skewer thru hub axle. Place spring on skewer and then tighten skewer nut a few turns. Proceed to step 13. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
  2. For bikes with a thru axle – please refer to attached guide from FOX on correct procedure when installing your front wheel with a thru axle system: Fox Thru Axle Instructions Here. Proceed to step 13.
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12b
13

Some tires will have a directional arrow indicating which way the tire should rotate. If the tire does please make sure the tire will be spinning in the correct direction once on the bike.

14

Make sure you remove the block spacer from front hydraulic brake caliper. DO NOT SQUEEZE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WITHOUT BLOCK OR WHEEL WITH DISC INSTALLED.

15

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure disc sits in between caliper pads and the tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that hard to close or open.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  2. Thru Axle

    1. Install Wheel, disc/caliper alignment
    2. Insert Thru Axle and tighten
    3. Close lever
  • 15a
  • 15a
  • 15ai
  • 15aii
  • 15aiii
  • 15b
  • 15bi
  • 15bi
  • 15bii
  • 15bii
  • 15biii
  • 15biii
  • 15biii
16

Complete Front Brake set up.

  1. Squeeze front brake lever – do not squeeze brake lever if the wheel and caliper are not installed.
  2. While holding the front brake lever, alternate tightening the top and bottom caliper bolts, until tight to manufacturer’s specifications.
  3. Spin wheel to make sure disc passes between caliper brake pads.
  • 16a
  • 16b
  • 16b
17

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

18

Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter clockwise)

19

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

20

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so it hits the stop so that derailleur cannot shift past that gear and into rear wheel spokes.
  2. Correct chain line
  • 20
  • 20a
  • 20b
21

While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to highest gear(smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that High adjustment screw (“H” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop so the derailleur cannot shift the chain past that gear and into the bike frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacture’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear derailleur adjustments

  • 21
  • 21a
  • 21b
22

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear/right shifter should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link:

Parktool Rear Derailleur

23

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure the chain is sitting on th smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
  • 23a
  • 23b
24

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back and the small chainring on the cranks.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 24
  • 24a
25

To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the largest chainring.

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

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  • 25a
  • 25b
26

Align your bars to the front wheel.

27

Tighten stem cap bolt.

28

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

29

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
30

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly

-the handlebars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

-your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

For those with air forks or shocks: It’s highly recommended that you see your fork manufacturers set up instructions online prior to suspension set up. Fox Tuning Tips

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

2015 - Mission Technology

Diamondback Bicycles - Mission Technology

8712.00.3500http://www.jensonusa.com/Diamondback-Mission-275-20-Bike-2015JENSONUSAhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/39/original/jenson.png?1381956226http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&mi=10060&pw=157015&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fdiamondback-mission-27.5-2.0-complete-mountain-bike%3Fti%3DU2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6ZGlhbW9uZGJhY2s6MToxNTpkaWFtb25kYmFjaw%26skid%3DDMB000U-GRE-SBackcountryhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/48/original/backcountry.png?1383262546http://www.competitivecyclist.com/diamondback-mission-27.5-2.0-complete-mountain-bike?ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6ZGlhbW9uZGJhY2s6MToxNjpkaWFtb25kYmFjaw&skidn=DMB000U-GRE-SCompetitive Cyclisthttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/51/original/competitive-cyclist.png?13947422414824Web 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media4839Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/4839/small/DB_15_Mission2_27.5_Grey_linkage.jpg?1426108733http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/4839/medium/DB_15_Mission2_27.5_Grey_linkage.jpg?1426108733http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/4839/large/DB_15_Mission2_27.5_Grey_linkage.jpg?1426108733http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/4839/xlarge/DB_15_Mission2_27.5_Grey_linkage.jpg?1426108733http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/4839/xxlarge/DB_15_Mission2_27.5_Grey_linkage.jpg?1426108733bike media872015 Mission 27.5bike mediabike additional mediaPrepared for any trail, the Mission 2 is truly all-mountain.

Your mission for the weekend is to go knock out as many trail miles as you can, and for that we give you the Mission 2 with our new KnuckleBox suspension design. This ripper saddles you up with 160mm of fearless, full suspension fun, launching down your favorite lines and looking to steamroll anything in its path. The SRAM 5 hydraulic disc brakes are perfect for the occasional speed check while its 27.5” wheels roll fast and blend just the right mix of hook up and drift that will have you laughing out loud as you float into and out of corners. Of course, you do have to pay for a bit of that pleasure, and that’s the pedal up. No worries, the FOX CTD serves up a suspension platform for efficient pedaling getting you back to the top so you can send it down again. Mission accomplished!

Hand built All Mountain 160mm travel 6061-T6 weapons grade aluminum frame with KnuckleBox suspension is super stiff and ultra durableSingle-sided hardware on three main pivot points allows convenient bearing accessFOX 34 Float CTD air front and CTD rear suspension is a staple for all mountain ridingSRAM/Race Face 1x10-speed delivers wide range of gears for any terrainSram DB5 Hydraulic Disc BrakesUpgrades over Mission One 27.5FOX Float CTD Boost Valve rear shockSRAM X9 10-speed rear derailleurSRAM 5 hydraulic disc brakesKS Lev remote dropper seatpostMission All Mountain 27.5, 160mm 6061-T6 Weapons Grade Aluminum w/Hydroformed Top Tube, Butted / Formed Down Tube / Seatstays, Under Arch Seatstay bridge, Tapered Head Tube Knuckle Box Technology, ISCG 05, 142x12mm E-Thru Axle Drop outFox Float, CTD, boost valve, "LV" eyelet, 8.5x2.5" Air, DB Mission Spec, w/rebound adj, w/Climb, Trail, Descend, leverFox 34 Float CTD air, 160mm travel, open cartridge, w/ ext. rebound, butted Alloy 1.5 Tapered steerer, 34mm Easton aluminum stanchions, magnesium lowers, w/QR15 Thru AxleFSA No57 Taper 1.5 / 1 1/8"standard cups, Sealed CartridgeRaceface Respond 30T, NarrowWide Single RingRaceface Outboard BearingSRAM X-9, Type 2 10spdSRAM X-7 10spd trigger (rear only)SRAM PG-1030 10spd Cassette (11-36t)SRAM PC-1031 Power Link32h Alloy Disc w/15mm Thru Axle32h 142x12 sealed cartridge bearing, 12mm Thru Axle, Cassette w/ CNC Disc mount, w/ Shimano E-Thru QR Axle14g Stainless SteelDB AM280 Doublewall Disc, 32hSchwalbe Hans Dampf 27.5x2.35, PerformanceSRAM DB 5 Hydraulic Disc Rotors - 180mm Front/180mm Rear CenterlineSRAM DB 5 Hydraulic Levers with reach adjDB Platform CNC, w/replaceable pins, sealed cartidge bearingDB PROBAR, 750mm width, 15mm rise, 31.8mmDB4L "Lock on" 135mm KratonDB Fifty, 50mm 31.8mmDB Race M-series saddle w/ cromo railsKS LEV DX Dropper 30.9mmKnuckle Box Shock Pump, Owner’s manual / Mission owner's manual cover, Chainstay Protector, H20 bottle mounts3800.03300.01446315.5" Small30.015.022.000105.066.573.01134.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0170.0385.0589.0380.00.00.01446417" Medium30.517.023.000105.066.573.01159.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0175.0385.0589.0404.00.00.01446519" Large31.519.024.000120.066.573.01176.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0175.0385.0604.0416.00.00.01446621" XLarge32.021.025.000140.066.573.01198.0451.044.0342.02.060.0740.0175.0385.0622.0430.00.00.002-15-206002-15-206102-15-206202-15-2063Diamondback1386Insight 242015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthYouth Performance Hybrid2016 - Youth - 8-12
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike

1

Begin by carefully cutting through the cardboard bike box with a sharp box cutter or a pair of scissors. Please be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin removing all of the packing material from the frame and detatching the wheel and handlebar by cutting all zipties that may be holding parts together.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.

4

Install seat post into frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it, but this is not necessary. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom). DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS.
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet to assemble bike.

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate, placing the bar in the stem and re-securing the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.

6

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS.

7

Now that your handlebars and seatpost are securely fastened, it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

8

Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Also please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting.

9

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork, Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike which is the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.

10

Once the wheel is in and secure, it’s now time to mount the front brake caliper to the fork. Start by unscrewing the recessed brake bolt from the bolt on the caliper. Insert the caliper bolt through the front of the fork crown and then thread the recessed brake bolt through the back, securing the caliper. The caliper should be approximately centered to the wheel.

11

Run the front brake cable through the barrel adjuster and tighten down the cable tensioner. Once hand tightened, you can then close the quick release lever on the brake caliper to secure the brake. This will shift the brake pads closer to the rim.

12

Once your front brake cable is properly adjusted, cut excess cable off leaving approximately 1.5” of cable and crimp cable end cap to avoid the cable from fraying.

13

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. To do so, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.

14

For pedal installation, we recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing. Next, take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right.

For the non-drive side (or left facing forward on bike) pedal, turn left to tighten.

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product.

15

Now it’s time to inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacture’s recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

16

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that every bolt is tight, that your wheels are secured in place, that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage

8712.00.1550http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCUH1N4/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.backcountry.com/diamondback-insight-24-kids-bike-2016?s=aBackcountryhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/48/original/backcountry.png?1383262546http://www.competitivecyclist.com/diamondback-insight-24-complete-bike-2015?ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6ZGlhbW9uZGJhY2s6MToxMDpkaWFtb25kYmFjaw&skidn=DMB0016-BK-S24INCompetitive Cyclisthttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/51/original/competitive-cyclist.png?1394742241http://www.rei.com/product/848547/diamondback-insight-24-boys-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?1409713847http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1164203_-1___400863PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?13832643745225Web ProfileBlackhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5225/small/DB_13_Insight24_Black.jpg?1426102711http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5225/medium/DB_13_Insight24_Black.jpg?1426102711http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5225/large/DB_13_Insight24_Black.jpg?1426102711http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5225/xlarge/DB_13_Insight24_Black.jpg?1426102711http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5225/xxlarge/DB_13_Insight24_Black.jpg?1426102711bike media5909Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5909/small/DB_13_Insight24_DRIVE.jpg?1426102776http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5909/medium/DB_13_Insight24_DRIVE.jpg?1426102776http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5909/large/DB_13_Insight24_DRIVE.jpg?1426102776http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5909/xlarge/DB_13_Insight24_DRIVE.jpg?1426102776http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5909/xxlarge/DB_13_Insight24_DRIVE.jpg?14261027765910Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5910/small/DB_13_Insight24_FORK.jpg?1426102781http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5910/medium/DB_13_Insight24_FORK.jpg?1426102781http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5910/large/DB_13_Insight24_FORK.jpg?1426102781http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5910/xlarge/DB_13_Insight24_FORK.jpg?1426102781http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5910/xxlarge/DB_13_Insight24_FORK.jpg?14261027815911Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5911/small/DB_13_Insight24_RD.jpg?1426102788http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5911/medium/DB_13_Insight24_RD.jpg?1426102788http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5911/large/DB_13_Insight24_RD.jpg?1426102788http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5911/xlarge/DB_13_Insight24_RD.jpg?1426102788http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5911/xxlarge/DB_13_Insight24_RD.jpg?14261027885912Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5912/small/DB_13_Insight24_SADDLE.jpg?1426102794http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5912/medium/DB_13_Insight24_SADDLE.jpg?1426102794http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5912/large/DB_13_Insight24_SADDLE.jpg?1426102794http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5912/xlarge/DB_13_Insight24_SADDLE.jpg?1426102794http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5912/xxlarge/DB_13_Insight24_SADDLE.jpg?14261027945349Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5349/small/diamondback-bicycles-mountain-youth-youth-performance-hybrid-insight-24.jpg?1426102758http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5349/medium/diamondback-bicycles-mountain-youth-youth-performance-hybrid-insight-24.jpg?1426102758http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5349/large/diamondback-bicycles-mountain-youth-youth-performance-hybrid-insight-24.jpg?1426102758http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5349/xlarge/diamondback-bicycles-mountain-youth-youth-performance-hybrid-insight-24.jpg?1426102758http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5349/xxlarge/diamondback-bicycles-mountain-youth-youth-performance-hybrid-insight-24.jpg?1426102758category mediaA kid's version of one of our most popular bikes.

The Insight 24 performance hybrid is the perfect bike to let your kid ride around the neighborhood having fun with friends. The durable alloy frame with replaceable derailleur hanger means its built to last and the strong linear pull brakes provide safe stopping power. Skinnier profile tires roll faster on smooth surfaces and the upright geometry make this one quick machine.

Alloy frame with replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilityAero Alloy straight blade fork for solid steeringLinear pull brakes provide safe stopping powerShimano 7-speed drivetrain gives wide range of gears24" youth sized wheelsINSIGHT 24" Light alloy frame w/ replaceable hangerInsight Jr. Aero Alloy straight bladeThreaded 1 1/8"165mm Alloy w/ chainguard 34/42tLooseballShimano TZ-30Shimano TX-35Shimano RS35 Revo 7spd TwistShimano MF-HG37 7spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5132h Nutted32h Nutted14g32h R-1000 AlloyJr. Dual Sport 24x1 3/8"Alloy LinearAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustResinSteel Jr Riser 23" wide x 1" riseDB KratonAlloy QuillJr Padded 2 panelAlloy Micro Adjust 27.2mmClear coat, Chainstay Protector, Owner’s manual, rear derailleur guard350.0300.01438224" Boys673.0300.0483.000120.069.071.0965.2410.037.0280.00.080.0580.0165.0300.00.00.00.00.002-15-5030Diamondback1387Clarity 242015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthYouth Performance Hybrid2016 - Youth - 8-12
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike

1

Begin by carefully cutting through the cardboard bike box with a sharp box cutter or a pair of scissors. Please be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin removing all of the packing material from the frame and detatching the wheel and handlebar by cutting all zipties that may be holding parts together.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.

4

Install seat post into frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it, but this is not necessary. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom). DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS.
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet to assemble bike.

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate, placing the bar in the stem and re-securing the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.

6

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS.

7

Now that your handlebars and seatpost are securely fastened, it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

8

Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Also please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting.

9

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork, Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike which is the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.

10

Once the wheel is in and secure, it’s now time to mount the front brake caliper to the fork. Start by unscrewing the recessed brake bolt from the bolt on the caliper. Insert the caliper bolt through the front of the fork crown and then thread the recessed brake bolt through the back, securing the caliper. The caliper should be approximately centered to the wheel.

11

Run the front brake cable through the barrel adjuster and tighten down the cable tensioner. Once hand tightened, you can then close the quick release lever on the brake caliper to secure the brake. This will shift the brake pads closer to the rim.

12

Once your front brake cable is properly adjusted, cut excess cable off leaving approximately 1.5” of cable and crimp cable end cap to avoid the cable from fraying.

13

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. To do so, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.

14

For pedal installation, we recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing. Next, take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right.

For the non-drive side (or left facing forward on bike) pedal, turn left to tighten.

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product.

15

Now it’s time to inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacture’s recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

16

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that every bolt is tight, that your wheels are secured in place, that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage

8712.00.1550http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCUH8OG/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&mi=10060&pw=157015&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fdiamondback-clarity-24-complete-bike-2015%3Fti%3DU2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6ZGlhbW9uZGJhY2s6MTo5OmRpYW1vbmRiYWNr%26skid%3DDMB0018-PK-S24INBackcountryhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/48/original/backcountry.png?1383262546http://www.competitivecyclist.com/diamondback-clarity-24-complete-bike-2015?ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6ZGlhbW9uZGJhY2s6MTo4OmRpYW1vbmRiYWNr&skidn=DMB0018-PK-S24INCompetitive Cyclisthttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/51/original/competitive-cyclist.png?1394742241http://www.rei.com/product/848555/diamondback-clarity-24-girls-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?1409713847http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1164205_-1___400863PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?13832643745223Web ProfilePinkhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5223/small/DB_13_Clarity24_Pink_.jpg?1426098450http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5223/medium/DB_13_Clarity24_Pink_.jpg?1426098450http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5223/large/DB_13_Clarity24_Pink_.jpg?1426098450http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5223/xlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_Pink_.jpg?1426098450http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5223/xxlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_Pink_.jpg?1426098450bike media5878Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5878/small/DB_13_Clarity24_BRAKE.jpg?1426098455http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5878/medium/DB_13_Clarity24_BRAKE.jpg?1426098455http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5878/large/DB_13_Clarity24_BRAKE.jpg?1426098455http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5878/xlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_BRAKE.jpg?1426098455http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5878/xxlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_BRAKE.jpg?14260984555879Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5879/small/DB_13_Clarity24_DRIVE.jpg?1426098458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5879/medium/DB_13_Clarity24_DRIVE.jpg?1426098458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5879/large/DB_13_Clarity24_DRIVE.jpg?1426098458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5879/xlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_DRIVE.jpg?1426098458http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5879/xxlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_DRIVE.jpg?14260984585880Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5880/small/DB_13_Clarity24_FORK.jpg?1426098465http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5880/medium/DB_13_Clarity24_FORK.jpg?1426098465http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5880/large/DB_13_Clarity24_FORK.jpg?1426098465http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5880/xlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_FORK.jpg?1426098465http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5880/xxlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_FORK.jpg?14260984655881Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5881/small/DB_13_Clarity24_RD.jpg?1426098471http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5881/medium/DB_13_Clarity24_RD.jpg?1426098471http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5881/large/DB_13_Clarity24_RD.jpg?1426098471http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5881/xlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_RD.jpg?1426098471http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5881/xxlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_RD.jpg?14260984715882Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5882/small/DB_13_Clarity24_SADDLE.jpg?1426098479http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5882/medium/DB_13_Clarity24_SADDLE.jpg?1426098479http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5882/large/DB_13_Clarity24_SADDLE.jpg?1426098479http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5882/xlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_SADDLE.jpg?1426098479http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5882/xxlarge/DB_13_Clarity24_SADDLE.jpg?1426098479It's fast, it's pink, and it's all hers!

Maybe it’s a stereotype, but what little girl doesn’t dream of getting a brand new pink bicycle. The Clarity 24 is an upright riding pavement bike that’s just the shiny machine to put a smile on her face and get her out riding around the block having fun.

Alloy frame with replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilityAero Alloy straight blade fork for solid steeringLinear pull brakes provide safe stopping power7-speed drivetrain gives wide range of gears24" narrow wheels for smaller fitCLARITY 24" Light alloy frame w/ replaceable hangerClarity Jr. Aero Alloy straight bladeThreaded 1 1/8"165mm Alloy w/ chainguard 34/42tLooseballShimano TZ-30Shimano TX-35Shimano RS35 Revo 7spd TwistShimano MF-HG37 7spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5132h Nutted32h Nutted14g32h R-1000 AlloyJr. Dual Sport 24x1 3/8"Alloy LinearAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustResinSteel Jr Riser 23" wide x 1" riseDB KratonAlloy QuillJr Padded 2 panelAlloy Micro Adjust 27.2mmClear coat, Chainstay Protector, Owner’s manual, rear derailleur guard350.0300.014276Jr Dual Sport 24" (Wheels)419.0300.0483.000120.069.071.00.0410.037.0279.00.085.0580.0165.0300.00.00.00.00.002-15-5040Diamondback1389Podium 242015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthYouth PodiumYouth Road2016 - Youth - 8-11
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Podium24"/650 Road Bike - Equipped with Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Podium24"/650 Road Bike (Equipped with Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Please be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4, 5, 6mm Allen wrenches.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble your bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes to a bike shop for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.
  4. Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Detach the front wheel by cutting all zip ties holding it on.
  2. Detach the handlebar by cutting all of the zip ties that may be holding parts together. Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.
  3. Then remove all of the packing material from the frame.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
4

Install seat post into frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  2. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position
  3. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 of the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4b
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next remove the stem bolts and faceplate.
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (use an “X” pattern) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

8

Now that your handlebars and seatpost are securely fastened, it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of both sides of the front wheel axle.

9

Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel.

  1. Remove the non-lever side of skewer, as well as one spring, and proceed to insert through the front wheel axle.
  2. Put the spring back on the skewer. Note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of spring points in towards hub and spokes).
  3. Thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
  • 9
  • 9a
  • 9a
  • 9a
  • 9a
  • 9b
  • 9c
10

Mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it):

  1. Insert wheel into front fork. Make sure wheel is centered in fork. Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive/left side (when sitting on the bike).
  2. Once the wheel is in the fork tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. The quick release part of the skewer should be on the non-drive/left side (when sitting on the bike).

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that is hard to close open.
    2. When closed, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  • 10a
  • 10a
  • 10a
  • 10a
  • 10bi
  • 10bi
  • 10bi
  • 10bi
11

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes.

  1. Disconnect the brake lever springs from the lever arms.
  2. Next, grasp brake pad and lever arm in one hand, and loosen brake pad bolt.
  3. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.
  4. Check to make sure both pads are hitting squarely in center of the rim braking surface.
  5. Reconnect the brake lever springs to the brake lever arms.
  • 11a
  • 11b
  • 11c
  • 11c
  • 11d
  • 11d
  • 11e
12

Reconnect the front brake by squeezing both brake lever arms together with one hand. Then pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brank arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

13

To tighten the brake cable tension:

  1. loosen cable anchor bolt
  2. pull the cable to remove excess slack and retighten the cable anchor bolt.
  3. Trim cable and crimp cable cap. There should be 2-3 inches of cable left after trimming.
  4. Install cable end.
  5. Tuck cable away and crimp cable cap to avail the cable unravelling, neatly behind brake lever arm.
  • 13a
  • 13b
  • 13c
  • 13c
  • 13d
  • 13d
  • 13d
  • 13e
14

Do the same for the rear brake as you did for the front as the brake pads may need adjustments.

  1. Release the spring from brake lever arm.
  2. Next, grasp brake pade with one hand and loosen break pad bolt.
  3. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.
  4. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.
15

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm.

16

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, If the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake – surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

17

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten cable anchor bolt.

Note: For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link

18

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each the threads of each pedals thread before installing.

19

Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the spindle or on the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).

20

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

21

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

22

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the lowestr gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 22
  • 22a
  • 22b
23

While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to the highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.

24

Check the adjustment of the high limit screw (“H” stamped on derailleur) to ensure the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the high gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Form Shimano, the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear Derailleur Adjustments

  • 24
  • 24a
  • 24b
25

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional Help Link: Parktool Rear Derailleur Adjustments

26

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or in the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
  • 26a
  • 26b
27

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest) cog in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest cog) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx.. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 27
  • 27a
  • 27b
28

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest (smallest) cog in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit screw (“H” stamped on Derailleur) so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain.

HELPFUL LINK

Parktool Front Derailleur Adjustments

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 28
  • 28a
  • 28b
29

Align your bars to the front wheel.

30

Tighten stem cap bolt.

31

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel, tighten stem bolts.

32

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
  • 32a
  • 32b
33

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

  1. every bolt is tight,
  2. your wheels are secured in place, so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly
  3. the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage

8712.00.1550featuredhttp://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCUH224/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.rei.com/product/876900/diamondback-podium-24-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?1409713847http://www.jensonusa.com/Diamondback/Diamondback-Podium-24-Bike-2015JENSONUSAhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/39/original/jenson.png?1381956226http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10052&langId=-1&catalogId=10551&productId=1164201PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?13832643745213Web ProfileWhitehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5213/small/DB_15_Podium24_white_profile.jpg?1426111004http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5213/medium/DB_15_Podium24_white_profile.jpg?1426111004http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5213/large/DB_15_Podium24_white_profile.jpg?1426111004http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5213/xlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_profile.jpg?1426111004http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5213/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_profile.jpg?1426111004bike media5214Web AngleWhitehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5214/small/DB_15_Podium24_white_angle.jpg?1426111045http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5214/medium/DB_15_Podium24_white_angle.jpg?1426111045http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5214/large/DB_15_Podium24_white_angle.jpg?1426111045http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5214/xlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_angle.jpg?1426111045http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5214/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_angle.jpg?1426111045bike media5919Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5919/small/DB_15_Podium24_white_BRAKE.jpg?1426111099http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5919/medium/DB_15_Podium24_white_BRAKE.jpg?1426111099http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5919/large/DB_15_Podium24_white_BRAKE.jpg?1426111099http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5919/xlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_BRAKE.jpg?1426111099http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5919/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_BRAKE.jpg?14261110995920Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5920/small/DB_15_Podium24_white_DRIVE.jpg?1426111102http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5920/medium/DB_15_Podium24_white_DRIVE.jpg?1426111102http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5920/large/DB_15_Podium24_white_DRIVE.jpg?1426111102http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5920/xlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_DRIVE.jpg?1426111102http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5920/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_DRIVE.jpg?14261111025921Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5921/small/DB_15_Podium24_white_FORK.jpg?1426111105http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5921/medium/DB_15_Podium24_white_FORK.jpg?1426111105http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5921/large/DB_15_Podium24_white_FORK.jpg?1426111105http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5921/xlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_FORK.jpg?1426111105http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5921/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_FORK.jpg?14261111055922Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5922/small/DB_15_Podium24_white_RD.jpg?1426111109http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5922/medium/DB_15_Podium24_white_RD.jpg?1426111109http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5922/large/DB_15_Podium24_white_RD.jpg?1426111109http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5922/xlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_RD.jpg?1426111109http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5922/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_RD.jpg?14261111095923Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5923/small/DB_15_Podium24_white_SADDLE.jpg?1426111112http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5923/medium/DB_15_Podium24_white_SADDLE.jpg?1426111112http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5923/large/DB_15_Podium24_white_SADDLE.jpg?1426111112http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5923/xlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_SADDLE.jpg?1426111112http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5923/xxlarge/DB_15_Podium24_white_SADDLE.jpg?14261111125330Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5330/small/diamondback-bicycles-pavement-youth-pavement-podium-24.jpg?1426111084http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5330/medium/diamondback-bicycles-pavement-youth-pavement-podium-24.jpg?1426111084http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5330/large/diamondback-bicycles-pavement-youth-pavement-podium-24.jpg?1426111084http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5330/xlarge/diamondback-bicycles-pavement-youth-pavement-podium-24.jpg?1426111084http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5330/xxlarge/diamondback-bicycles-pavement-youth-pavement-podium-24.jpg?1426111084subcategory mediacategory mediaOur smallest road bike is perfect for beginning roadies.

Most kids love riding bikes, but some seem to want to push the envelope of speed to a whole new level. Modeled after our adult road bikes, the Podium 24 packs all the pint sized features to let them enjoy road rides with you on the weekend and keep them growing with the sport.

6061 aluminum alloy frame with replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilityJunior Aero Alloy straight blade fork delivers confidence inspiring handlingShimano 8-speed Shifters and derailleurs provides wide range of gears for growing legs24” wheels roll fast to keep up with mom and dadAlloy drop bar6061 Alloy frame w/replacable hangerJr. Aero Alloy straight blade Alloy SteerTube1 1/8 Threadless155mm Alloy Arm 38/48LooseballShimano Claris, top pull, 31.8Shimano Claris, 8 spdShimano ClarisShimano 8spd 11-28tKMC HG5032H QR32h Alloy QR14gDB Equation R 24"Chaoyang Dolphin 24x1Promax Mini V brakesShimamo ClarisResinAlloy, 380mm Wide x 100mm DropCork Tape w/ GelAlloy Ahead 60mm, 25.4 Bar BoreJr. Equip SaddleAlloy Micro Adjust 27.2mmOwner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat600.0500.01450824" Boys665.0345.0477.000120.071.073.0888.0365.037.0241.035.090.0378.0155.0300.0520.0343.10.00.002-15-5020Diamondback1390Cobra 202015Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainYouthYouth 202016 - Youth - 6-10
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.

  1. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable. When the handlebars are in the stem the right hand side should control the rear brake and rear derailleur while the left hand side should control the front brake and front derailleur.
  3. Loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

8

To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.

9

For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.

11

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

12

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.

13

The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.

14

Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

15

Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.

Note:

For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.

16

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

17

Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).

18

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.

19

Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.

20

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.

21

Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.

22

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

23

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

24

Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)

25

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

26

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

27

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 27a
  • 27b
28
  1. Incorrect Chain Line
  2. Correct Chain Line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Parktool Rear Derailleur

29

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gear one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Parktool Rear Derailleur

30

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
31

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
32

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear and the shift the front derailleur so the chain is in the highest gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit Screw so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 32a
  • 32b
33

Align your bars to the front wheel.

34

Tighten stem cap bolt.

35

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

36

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
37

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt is tight

-your wheels are secured in place

-your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

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mediacategory mediasubcategory mediaGears and a suspension fork, tickets to a whole new world.

Your little guy can’t get enough of ripping around outside, and the Cobra 20 is a youth mountain bike built with a high tensile steel frame and suspension fork is the perfect bike to get him rolling around the neighborhood and up and down any strip of dirt he can find.

High tensile steel frame is super durableSuspension fork soaks up bumpsLinear pull brakes are simple and strongShimano 7-speed drivetrain give wide range of gearsDB Hi-Ten 20" MTB frameZoom Suspension, 40mm TravelThreaded 1"140mm One-piece, 40 Tooth w/ Double GuardLooseball BBN/AShimano TZ-20Shimano RS25 Revo TwistShimano MF-HG37 6spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5136 Hole, Nutted36 Hole, Nutted, 6-spd Freewheel14g36h R-1000 AlloyJr ATB Knobby, 20x2.0 w/ Smooth Center RidgeAlloy Linear PullAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustAvenir Youth Resin1/2"Steel Jr RiserDB KratonAlloy QuillJR ATB 2-panelSteel Pillar 28.6mm225.0180.01428220" Boys495.0279.0406.000100.070.074.0889.0381.044.0322.012.780.0580.0140.0280.00.00.040.00.0Diamondback1391Cobra 242015Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainPavementYouth 242016 - Youth - 8-12
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.

  1. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable. When the handlebars are in the stem the right hand side should control the rear brake and rear derailleur while the left hand side should control the front brake and front derailleur.
  3. Loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

8

To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.

9

For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.

11

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

12

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.

13

The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.

14

Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

15

Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.

Note:

For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.

16

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

17

Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).

18

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.

19

Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.

20

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.

21

Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.

22

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

23

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

24

Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)

25

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

26

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

27

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 27a
  • 27b
28
  1. Incorrect Chain Line
  2. Correct Chain Line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Parktool Rear Derailleur

29

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gear one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Parktool Rear Derailleur

30

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
31

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
32

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear and the shift the front derailleur so the chain is in the highest gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit Screw so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 32a
  • 32b
33

Align your bars to the front wheel.

34

Tighten stem cap bolt.

35

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

36

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
37

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt is tight

-your wheels are secured in place

-your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

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Your kid’s got a love for the dirt, and if he can tear through it on a knobby tired mountain bike , then all the better. The Cobra 24 is a 24" wheeled mountain bike that has a high tensile steel frame to handle all the abuse and a suspension fork to take some of the knocks too.

High tensile steel frame for durabilitySuspension fork helps absorb bumpsLinear pull brakes for simple powerful stoppingShimano 7-speed drivetrain give wide range of gearsSteel Jr 24" Mountain FrameTrial XC 40mm travel Threaded 1"MTB Steel arms w/ chainguard 24/34/42tLooseball BBShimano TZ-20Shimano TZ-40Shimano RS25 Revo TwistShimano MF-HG37 7spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5136 Hole, Nutted36 Hole, Nutted, 7-spd Freewheel14g36h R-1000 AlloyJr ATB Knobby, 24x2.1 w/ Smooth Center RidgeAlloy Linear PullAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustResin MTB, 9/16"Steel Jr RiserDB Kraton Alloy QuillJR ATB 2-panelSteel Pillar 27.2mm250.0200.01428424" Boys546.0330.0483.000100.071.071.0965.2420.040.0508.020.080.0580.0165.0280.00.00.040.00.002-15-5110Diamondback1392Della Cruz 242015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 8-12
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The 24” wheeled Della Cruz beach cruiser may just be the new “too cool for school”. The ‘tank’ top tube surf inspired styling is a classic attention getter, but the powder blue finish and white wall decked pop color rims are sure signs that this bike is sassy.

Durable high tensile steel frame for 24” wheelsStylish classic cruiser ‘tank’ top tube designExtra standover height for easy dismountFenders and chain guard for protection from puddles and grimeDB Hi-Ten Steel Cruiser w/ "Tank" top tubeHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"140mm 1-Piece, 36tLooseball18t CogKMC Z41036h Nutted36h Nutted, Coaster14g36h R-1000 alloyCruiser whitewall 24x2.125CoasterResin PlatformCruiser 22.75" wide x 3" riseJr CruiserAlloy quillDella Cruz Double SpringSteel Pillar 25.4mmCustom Fenders, Owner’s Manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat230.0180.01434124" Girls0.0310.0537.000110.070.071.01020.0435.035.0275.00.040.0580.0165.025.40.00.00.00.002-15-5230Diamondback1393Impression2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 4-8
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Nothing makes an impression on a little kid like a getting a brand new bike. The positively purple Impression is a 20” wheeled wonder that is not only eye catchingly cute with it’s little front hang bag, it’s also a great little bike to get her pedaling up and down the block having fun with her friends.

Durable high tensile steel frame for 20” wheelsExtra standover clearance for easy dismountsLinear pull and rear coaster brakes for safe stoppingHandlebar mounted handbagDB Hi-Ten SteelHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"140mm 1-Piece, 36tLooseball18t CogKMC Z41036h Nutted36h Nutted, Coaster14g36h R-1000 AlloyDB Smooth 20x1.75Alloy Linear w/ Coaster HubAlloy LinearResin PlatformHi-Ten 2-piece 24" wide x 6" riseSoft PVCSteel Quill w/ Alloy CapDB Miss BMX PaddedSteel Pillar 25.4mmConvertible hand bag, 2 pc pad set, Clear coat, Owner’s manual170.0150.01437320" Girls0.0279.0488.000100.071.069.0893.0375.042.0260.00.040.0610.0140.0254.00.00.00.00.002-15-5270Diamondback1395Lil' Della Cruz2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 2-4
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It’s hard to believe that she’s ready to start riding a bike. It’ll take some patience coaxing her back and forth in front of the house, but when she takes those first solo pedal strokes, you get to see the whole world light up with her smile, and that suddenly makes it all seem worthwhile. The Lil’ Della Cruz is the perfect little ride whether its sunny rides around the block or early mornings on the way to school.

Durable high tensile steel frame for 12” wheelsStylish classic cruiser ‘tank’ top tube designExtra standover clearance for easy dismountFenders and chain guard for protection from puddles and grimeDB Hi-Ten Steel CruiserHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"90mm 1-Piece, 28tLooseball16t CogKMC Z41016h Nutted16h Nutted, Coaster14g16h R-1000 alloyCruiser whitewall 12x2.125CoasterResin PlatformCruiser 18" wideSoft PVCAlloy quillDella Cruz Double SpringSteel Pillar 25.4mmCustom Fenders, Training Wheels, Owner’s Manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat160.0130.0Diamondback1907Serios AF2015Road - Triathlon/TTPavementSerios2015 - ROAD - SERIOS
Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Guide

Fit is one of the most important elements of bicycle design. An optimized position is the perfect combination of aerodynamics, power output, and sustainability. Often riders focus on just one or two elements instead of all three, leading to a less than optimized fit. The Diamondback Serios Fit Guide is designed to provide you with all the information and steps needed to determine your best fit.

SELECTING A SIZE

Generally, we see two different types of customers purchasing a Serios bike:

  1. First time TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a road bike and are now purchasing their first TT/Tri bike
  2. Experienced TT/Tri buyers – those that already have a TT/Tri bike, and are now replacing it with a Serios

Regardless of which category you fall into, the Serios Fit Guide can help you determine the best frame size for your needs.

FIRST-TIME TT/TRI BUYERS

When purchasing your first TT/Tri bike, the most general way is to base the Serios frame size on your existing road bike. Most riders tend to use the same size TT/Tri frame as their road frame. Below is chart that can help you select an appropriate size.

Diamondback Serios Bike first time buyers

EXPERIENCED TT/TRI BUYERS

If you are an experienced rider and are upgrading your current TT/Tri bike, it is best to start is with your current fit. First determine the Pad Stack and Pad Reach of your current TT/Tri bike. To do this, you will need your current TT/Tri bike, a pencil, tape measure.

Diamondback Serios Bike experienced buyers

Determining your Pad Stack and Pad Reach:

  • To determine your Pad Stack ©, you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Height (A) – The distance from the ground to the top of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Height (B) – The distance from the center of the BB to the outer edge of rear wheel: ____ mm
    3. Pad Stack ©=A – B=____ mm
  • To determine your Pad Reach (F), you will need the following measurements:
    1. Pad Distance (D) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the pads: ____ mm
    2. Bottom Bracket Distance (E) – The distance from the edge of the rear wheel to the center of the BB: ____ mm
    3. Pad Reach (F)=____ mm

Once you have determined your current pad stack and pad reach, refer to our fit-grid to determine the best frame size for you.

For any questions regarding your frame size and fit, please contact DIAMONDBACK SUPPORT

Diamondback Serios Bike Fit Grid

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Bottom Bracket (BB):Connects the drive side & non-drive side cranks to each other & the frame.
Pad(s):The padded cups atop the handlebars that are designed to support the rider’s elbows while in an aerodynamic position.
Pad Stack:The vertical distance from the CENTER of bottom bracket to the top of the pads.
Pad Reach:The horizontal distance from the CENTER of the bottom bracket to the CENTER of the pads.

Achieving your Fit Coordinates

After you have calculated your Pad Stack and Pad Reach, you can achieve your fit using a combination of the provided stem spacers and/or HED aerobar risers (available from HED Cycling). The stem spacers have a total of 50mm of stack range and the HED risers have 24mm of stack range.

PAD STACK

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame StackLow PadHigh Pad
50/SM/XS501mm560mm646mm
54/MD532mm591mm678mm
56/LG552mm611mm698mm
58/XL572mm632mm718mm
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 10
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 15
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 20
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 25
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 30
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 35
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 40
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 45
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 50
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 62
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Stack 74

PAD REACH

SAMPLE COMBINATIONS:

SizeFrame ReachShort PadLong Pad
50/SM/XS395mm431mm496mm
54/MD408mm446mm511mm
56/LG421mm468mm533mm
58/XL434mm492mm557mm

The Pad Reach range is 25mm and is achieved through the use of the mounting holes on the arm rest pads. Further Reach combinations can be achieved by substituting a different length stem. The mounting diameters are industry standard Ø28.6mm at the fork steerer and Ø31.8mm at the aerobar.

Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach +12.5
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach 0
Diamondback Serios Bike Pad Reach -12.5

Geometry Table

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The Serios was a fantastic handler on our hilly test ride"lava-magazine-on-display-diamondback-serios-afhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/hits/pdf/32/on_display_LavaAug.pdf?14364796212015-07-09In crosswinds and corners of the real world, there is no faster time trial/triathlon bike.

Time Trials and triathlons are won by determination and grit. Hours training in the saddle are worth the precious seconds shaved off race times. The engineers behind the Serios have put in their work, too. Going into the design process fresh, they discovered the prevailing conventions in aero bike design were flawed: thinner profiles are not necessarily better. By experimenting with new and unique shapes, they created a bike that sees up to half the drag of the competition. It looks different because it is different.

Diamondback Serios Aero Fork, unidirectional carbonHED Corsair BarFull Dura-Ace 11sp GroupHED wheelsUpgrades over Serios FShimano Dura-Ace HED Jet 6 and Jet 9 wheelsSerios Aero TimeTrial Frameset, Unidirectional Carbon, 1-3/8" Taper,Diamondback Serios Aero Fork, Unidirectional Carbon,1-3/8" TaperFSA IS-2-138Shimano Dura Ace FC-9000 53/39T, 11spPRAXIS PF30-Shimano ConversionShimano Dura Ace FD-9000, 11sp Braze-onShimano Dura Ace RD-9000, 11spShimano Dura Ace Bar End, SL-BSR1, 11spShimano Dura Ace CS-9000 11sp, 11-25TShimano Dura Ace CN-9000HED Jet 6 Plus Front 18 H SCT Clincher 700HED Jet 9 Plus Rear 24 H CT Shimano Clincher 700HED Jet 9 Plus Rear 24 H CT Shimano Clincher 700Front: Continental Attack 700x22, Rear: Continental Force 700x24Shimano Dura Ace BR-9010 Direct MountHED Corsair IntergratedResin Test Ride PedalHED Corsair Bar 42cm Flat 31.8 w/Carbon Lazy S BendDBR Race tape w/GelDB TT with full Hed Corsair Integration.ISM Road w/Cromo RailsDB TT Aero Carbon w/Ritchey Seat ClampFront Derailleur Hanger, Rear Derailleur Hanger, 2x/10mm Aero Headset Spacer, 2x/15mm Aero Headset Spacer, TOP TUBE GEL PACK BAG.8500.01457350/SM/XS742.2514.20.000103.472.577.0974.3400.045.00.065.095.0400.0170.0270.0501.0395.10.00.01457454/MD763.1545.60.000124.972.577.0992.0400.045.00.075.095.0400.0172.5270.0531.6408.00.00.01457556/LG783.5566.10.000145.972.577.01010.8400.045.00.075.0105.0400.0172.5270.0551.6420.60.00.01457658/XL804.5587.10.000167.472.577.01030.3400.045.00.075.0115.0400.0175.0350.0572.1433.50.00.002-15-152002-15-152102-15-152202-15-1523Diamondback1396Lustre 202015Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainYouthYouth 202016 - Youth - 6-10
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.

  1. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable. When the handlebars are in the stem the right hand side should control the rear brake and rear derailleur while the left hand side should control the front brake and front derailleur.
  3. Loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

8

To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.

9

For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.

11

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

12

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.

13

The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.

14

Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

15

Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.

Note:

For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.

16

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

17

Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).

18

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.

19

Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.

20

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.

21

Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.

22

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

23

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

24

Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)

25

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

26

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

27

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 27a
  • 27b
28
  1. Incorrect Chain Line
  2. Correct Chain Line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Parktool Rear Derailleur

29

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gear one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Parktool Rear Derailleur

30

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
31

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
32

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear and the shift the front derailleur so the chain is in the highest gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit Screw so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 32a
  • 32b
33

Align your bars to the front wheel.

34

Tighten stem cap bolt.

35

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

36

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
37

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt is tight

-your wheels are secured in place

-your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

8712.00.1520http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FC1TQFW/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.rei.com/product/862865/diamondback-lustre-20-girls-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?1409713847http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10052&langId=-1&catalogId=10551&productId=1149671PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?13832643745219Web ProfileLight 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to keep up with older siblings, and a squishy fork for bumps.

The Lustre 20 is the perfect pedaling companion when she’s out with the neighbor kids down the street. The suspension fork makes things a little less bumpy, and the 6061 heat treated frame is built tough enough to take on any adventure.

6061 heat treated aluminum alloy construction and replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilitySuspension fork for smooth rideLinear pull brakes are simple and strongShimano 6-speed drivetrain for wide gear rangeDB 6061 heat-treated Aluminum with replaceable derailleur hanger.N/ATrial XC 30mm travelThreaded 1 1/8"140mm 1-Piece, 40tLooseballN/AShimano TZ-50Shimano RS35 Revo Twist Shimano MF-HG37 6spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5136h Nutted36h Nutted14g36h R-1000 AlloyJr. ATB Knobby 20x2.0Alloy LinearAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustResinSteel Jr Riser 20.5" wide x 1" riseDB KratonAlloy QuillJr ATB 2 panelSteel Pillar 25.4mmClear coat, Chainstay Protector, Owner’s manual, rear derailleur guard300.0260.01442320"0.0280.0465.000100.070.071.0885.19380.037.0254.00.085.0520.0140.0280.00.00.040.00.0Diamondback1397Lustre 242015Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainYouthYouth 242016 - Youth - 8-12
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.

  1. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable. When the handlebars are in the stem the right hand side should control the rear brake and rear derailleur while the left hand side should control the front brake and front derailleur.
  3. Loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

8

To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.

9

For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.

11

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

12

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.

13

The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.

14

Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

15

Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.

Note:

For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.

16

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

17

Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).

18

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.

19

Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.

20

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.

21

Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.

22

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

23

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

24

Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)

25

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

26

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

27

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 27a
  • 27b
28
  1. Incorrect Chain Line
  2. Correct Chain Line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Parktool Rear Derailleur

29

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gear one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Parktool Rear Derailleur

30

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
31

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
32

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear and the shift the front derailleur so the chain is in the highest gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit Screw so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 32a
  • 32b
33

Align your bars to the front wheel.

34

Tighten stem cap bolt.

35

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

36

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
37

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt is tight

-your wheels are secured in place

-your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

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Riding around with friends is a great way to spend the afternoon, and the Lustre 24 will give her the freedom to do just that. Built with 6061 heat treated aluminum and a suspension fork, it can carry her carefree around the block, and can even take her out on the trails for a little added adventure.

6061 heat treated aluminum alloy construction and replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilitySuspension fork for smooth rideLinear pull brakes are simple and strongShimano 7-speed drivetrain for wide gear rangeDB 6061 heat-treated Aluminum with replaceable derailleur hanger.N/ATrial XC 40mm travelThreaded 1 1/8"MTB Alloy w/ chainguard 24/34/42tLooseballShimano TZ-20Shimano TZ-50Shimano RS35 Revo Twist Shimano MF-HG37 7spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5136h Nutted36h Nutted14g36h R-1000 AlloyJr. ATB Knobby 24x2.1Alloy LinearAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustResinSteel Jr Riser 23" wide x 1" riseDB KratonAlloy QuillJr ATB 3 panelSteel Pillar 25.4mmClear coat, Chainstay Protector, Owner’s manual, rear derailleur guard350.0300.01442524"0.0300.0500.000100.069.071.0958.85350.037.0282.00.085.0580.0165.0300.00.00.050.00.002-15-5081Diamondback1398Micro Viper2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 2-4
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the time they can walk, they're ready to ride!

It’s hard to believe that someone so small can ride a bike. It takes some patience to coach them back and forth in front of the house, but when they take those first solo pedal strokes, you get to see their face light up with pure joy, and there’s nothing better than that. And the DB Micro Viper is the perfect beginner rig.

Durable high tensile steel construction12” wheels for the smallest kidsCoaster brake is easy for kids to learnChain guard keeps kid’s clothes and fingers out of harms wayDB Hi-Ten Steel frame w/ 4-stroke "Power Gusset"Hi-Ten steelThreaded 1"90mm 1-Piece, 28tLooseball18t CogKMC Z41016h Nutted16h Nutted, Coaster14g16h R-1000 AlloyComp III style 12x2.125CoasterResin PlatformHi-Ten 2-piece 19" wide x 4.75" riseSoft PVCSteel Quill w/ Alloy CapDB Jr PaddedAlloy Integrated 25.4mm2 pc pad set, Training Wheels, Clear coat, Owner’s manual150.0120.01445512" Boys0.0155.0289.000100.071.071.00.0230.033.00.030.021.7470.089.0200.00.00.00.00.002-14-5320Diamondback1399Mini Della Cruz2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 3-6
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w/Green Pipinghttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6634/small/DB_13_MiniDellaCruz_Pink_SADDLE_1.jpg?1426108009http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6634/medium/DB_13_MiniDellaCruz_Pink_SADDLE_1.jpg?1426108009http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6634/large/DB_13_MiniDellaCruz_Pink_SADDLE_1.jpg?1426108009http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6634/xlarge/DB_13_MiniDellaCruz_Pink_SADDLE_1.jpg?1426108009http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/6634/xxlarge/DB_13_MiniDellaCruz_Pink_SADDLE_1.jpg?1426108009An unintimidating bike to learn on, she'll be riding in no time.

Learning to ride can be a bit frightening for a little girl, but when she get’s to do it on the super cute Mini Della Cruz, you’ll have a hard time getting her off of it. The totally pink palette and fun accents will win her heart, and reward you with her big smile.

Durable high tensile steel frame for 16” wheelsStylish classic cruiser ‘tank’ top tube designExtra standover height for easy dismountFenders and chain guard for protection from puddles and grimeDB Hi-Ten Steel CruiserHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"140mm 1-Piece, 36tLooseball18t CogKMC Z41028h Nutted28h Nutted, Coaster14g28h R-1000 alloyCruiser whitewall 16x2.125CoasterResin PlatformCruiser 22.75" wide x 3" riseJr CruiserAlloy quillDella Cruz Double SpringSteel Pillar 25.4mmCustom Fenders, Training Wheels, Owner’s Manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat180.0150.01445616" Girls0.0200.0375.000100.071.071.0747.0310.025.0218.00.040.0520.0114.0200.00.00.00.00.002-15-5250Diamondback1400Mini Impression2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 3-6
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A kid’s first bike always leaves lasting memories, and the Mini Impression will certainly make its mark. The super cute colors and tiny handbag will win her heart, but the joy and freedom she discovers by riding a bike is a love that will last a lifetime.

Durable high tensile steel frame for 16” wheelsExtra standover clearance for easy dismountsRear coaster brake for safe stoppingHandlebar mounted handbagDB Hi-Ten SteelHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"115mm 1-Piece, 36tLooseball18t CogKMC Z41028h Nutted, Coaster28h Nutted, Coaster14g28h R-1000 AlloyDB Smooth 16x1.75CoasterResin PlatformHi-Ten 2-piece 20.5" wide x 6.5" riseSoft PVCSteel Quill w/ Alloy CapDB Miss BMX PaddedSteel Pillar 25.4mmTraining wheels, Convertible hand bag. 2 pc pad set, Clear coat, Owner’s manual160.0140.01445716" Girls0.0200.0375.000100.071.071.0747.0310.025.0218.00.040.0520.0114.0254.00.00.00.00.002-15-5280Diamondback1402Miz Della Cruz2015Road - Youth RoadYouthYouthBMX - SidewalkSidewalk2016 - Youth - 4-8
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When you show up to school on your brand new Miz Della Cruz, all your friends will definitely start talking. That pretty paint and those gorgeous green wheels will grab everyone’s attention and have all the girls lining up to admire the cutest new bike on the playground.

Durable high tensile steel frame for 20” wheelsStylish classic cruiser ‘tank’ top tube designExtra standover clearance for easy dismountFenders and chain guard for protection from puddles and grimeDB Hi-Ten Steel Cruiser w/ "Tank" top tubeHi-Ten steelThreaded 1"140mm 1-Piece, 36tLooseball18t CogKMC Z41036h Nutted36h Nutted, Coaster14g36h R-1000 alloyCruiser whitewall 20x2.125CoasterResin PlatformCruiser 22.75" wide x 3" riseJr CruiserAlloy quillDella Cruz Double SpringSteel Pillar 25.4mmCustom Fenders, Owner’s Manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat220.0170.01447520" Girls0.0265.0454.000110.071.071.0880.0375.042.0260.00.040.0545.0140.025.40.00.00.00.002-15-5240Diamondback2426Overdrive2016Mountain - Trail - HardtailMountainOverdrive2015 - MTN - SM - XL
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Mechanical Disc Brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Mechanical Disc Brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, make sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.

  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
4

Install seat post into frame:

Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube.

  1. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seat post before inserting it.
  2. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR seat post clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. NOTE: Seat clamp bolts are typically tightened to a MAX of 5nm and noted on the seat clamp.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – where cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next remove the stem bolts and faceplate.
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6c
  • 6c
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. Most bars will offer some guidance using painted marks on the bar.

8

When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally (use an “x” pattern for four bolt systems) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side.

9

The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

10

Install the rear brake cable clamp.

11

Installation and Set-up of front (and rear) mechanical disk brakes:

  1. Gather Caliper Bolts and Washers and Brake Caliper from parts box
  2. Install Front Caliper

    1. Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
    2. Bottom Bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
  3. Begin to tighten Caliper bolts (alternating tightening a few turns each time between the top and bottom caliper bolt), but leave a little play in caliper – do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
  • 11a
  • 11bi
  • 11bi
  • 11bi
  • 11bii
  • 11bii
  • 11bii
  • 11c
  • 11c
12

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

13

For some disc brakes you may need to install the disc rotors. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you’ll want to secure the rotors to the wheels using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a directional arrow. NOTE: All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.

  • 13
14

Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure the fork is in the correct position before mounting the wheel (fork arch should be facing forward):

  1. Some tires will have a directional arrow (located on the side wall) indicating which way the tire should rotate. If your tire does please install the wheel so the tire will spin in the correct direction.
  2. Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Loosen the non-lever side of skewer and proceed to insert thru front wheel axle. The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of spring points in towards hub and spokes) and make sure there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Place spring on skewer and then thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
  • 14a
  • 14b
  • 14b
  • 14b
  • 14b
  • 14b
  • 14b
  • 14b
15

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure the disc sits in between caliper pads. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that it is hard to close or open. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  • 15
  • 15
  • 15
  • 15a
  • 15a
  • 15a
  • 15a
16

Some bikes may arrive without a front brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

  1. Set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.
  2. Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever.
  3. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle.
  4. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster.
  5. Turn the inner lock adjuster so slots no longer line up in order to keep cable from coming out of lever slot.
  6. Front brake cable routing should run thru cable guide on front of fork, then inside of left fork blade and to adjusting barrel of the front brake caliper.
  • 16a
  • 16b
  • 16c
  • 16c
  • 16c
  • 16d
  • 16e
  • 16f
  • 16f
  • 16f
17

Installation and set up of front brake:

  1. Pass the inner cable through the cable adjusting barrel of the front brake caliper. Loosen the anchor bolt. With the arm in the initial position, put the cable under the cable anchor bolt, and tighten the anchor bolt.
  2. While depressing the brake lever, set the calipers to the required position and then tighten the two caliper fixing bolts alternately by small amounts each time. Trim off excess cable leaving approximately 1.5” of cable.
  3. Install the cable end cap and crimp cable end cap to avoid the cable from fraying.
  4. Refer to the following manufacturers sites for specific on adjusting your model of mechanical Disc Caliper:

    1. Tektro Mechanical: Tektro Manual Here
    2. Avid: Avid Manual Here
  • 17a
  • 17a
  • 17a
  • 17b
  • 17b
  • 17c
  • 17c
  • 17c
  • 17c
  • 17c
18

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the pedal spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to the threads of each pedals thread before installing.

19

Start by hand threading in the left (this should be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the pedal spindle or on the pedal axle), the non-drive side pedal, into the left/non-drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your pedal wrench 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).

20

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

21

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on Derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.
  2. Correct Chain line
  • 21
  • 21a
  • 21b
22

Now it is time to make sure the high limit screw is set so the chain does not fall between the highest gear and the frame. While pedaling the bike, shift rear derailleur to highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Check the adjustment of the high adjustment screw (“H” stamped on the rear derailleur) is set to ensure that the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the highest gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear deraillueurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear derailleur: Here.

OR utilize these links to manufacturers site for instructional PDFs and/or videos:

Sram: Here.

23

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear-right shifter lever (when facing forward on the bike) should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur or at the rear shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link: Rear Derailleur Adjustments Here

  • Rear
  • Rear
  • Shifter
24

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
  • 24a
  • 24b
25

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 25
  • 25a
26

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is in the highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINKS:

Front derailleur adjustments: Here

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 26
  • 26a
27

Align your bars to the front wheel.

28

Tighten stem cap bolt.

29

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

30

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a manufacturer’s recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

31

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time and make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly

-the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them


-that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback

7996Web ProfileBlackhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7996/small/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-AngleProfile.jpg?1442354243http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7996/medium/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-AngleProfile.jpg?1442354243http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7996/large/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-AngleProfile.jpg?1442354243http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7996/xlarge/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-AngleProfile.jpg?1442354243http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7996/xxlarge/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-AngleProfile.jpg?1442354243bike media7997Web AngleBlackhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7997/small/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-Angle.jpg?1442354255http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7997/medium/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-Angle.jpg?1442354255http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7997/large/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-Angle.jpg?1442354255http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7997/xlarge/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-Angle.jpg?1442354255http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7997/xxlarge/AMZ16-Overdrive-Black-Angle.jpg?1442354255bike mediaThis simple 29er is anything but ordinary.

Maybe you’re new to this whole mountain biking thing, or maybe you just want to take a stab at trail riding on 29” wheels, but either way, the Overdrive will get you out having fun. The 6061-T6 aluminum alloy is a trusted frame material, and the custom formed and butted tubes create a structure that is uniquely strong and lightweight. The machined head tube lets you steer with precision and the forged rear dropouts with a replaceable derailleur hanger mean you don’t have to worry about something breaking. All that’s left to you is to get out and ride.

Hand built 6061-T6 aluminum alloy 29er hardtail frame is tried and trueCustom formed and butted tubing for great balance of strength and light weightSR Suntour suspension fork provides added control and comfort on the trailShimano 8-speed drivetrain is a staple of reliabilityTektro mechanical disc brakes offer great stopping powerOverdrive 29" Butted 6061-T6 Aluminum w/ Formed Top / Down Tube, machined headtube, forged drop outs w/replaceable hanger, disc onlySR Suntour XCT 100mm travel, 28.6mm stanchionsIntegrated FSA Drop-in ACB upper, Zero Stack lower internal cup and cartridge bearing, 1 1/8"SR Suntour XCT, 43/32/22TSquare Taper - 5pcShimano TX50 dual pull, Low clamp, dual pull, 34.9Shimano Acera M360 8spdShimanoAltus EF-51 Easyfire 8spdShimano HG31 8spd Cassette (11-32t)KMC Z8232h SL-7 Alloy w/ CNC Disc Mount32h SL-7 Alloy Cassette w/ CNC Disc mountBlack 14g Stainless SteelDB SL7 29" 32h, DoublewallSchwalbe Rapid Rob 29X2.25, KevlarGuardTektro Aires Mechanical Disc Brake, Rotors - 180mm Front/160mm RearShimano Altus Integrated Brake LeverWellgo Alloy forged, CNC MTBDB Laser Series 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 670mmDB4L 135mm KratonDB 3D Forged,31.8mm, 7°DB Race s M-series saddleDB Micro Adjust 30.9mmOwner’s manual, H20 bottle mounts, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, 3 extra inches of wheel diameter!700.029411S/16"749.0406.0559.00095.070.073.01062.0440.038.0313.00.060.0670.0170.0350.00.00.00.00.029412M/18"762.0457.0597.000105.071.073.01091.0440.038.0313.00.075.0670.0175.0350.00.00.00.00.029413L/20"800.0508.0622.000120.071.073.01112.0440.038.0313.00.090.0670.0175.0350.00.00.00.00.029414XL/22"832.0559.0648.000135.071.073.01131.0440.038.0313.00.090.0670.0175.0350.00.00.00.00.002-16-901002-16-901102-16-901202-16-9013Diamondback1403Octane 202015Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainYouthYouth 202016 - Youth - 6-10
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.

  1. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable. When the handlebars are in the stem the right hand side should control the rear brake and rear derailleur while the left hand side should control the front brake and front derailleur.
  3. Loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

8

To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.

9

For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.

11

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

12

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.

13

The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.

14

Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

15

Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.

Note:

For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.

16

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

17

Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).

18

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.

19

Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.

20

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.

21

Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.

22

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

23

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

24

Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)

25

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

26

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

27

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 27a
  • 27b
28
  1. Incorrect Chain Line
  2. Correct Chain Line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Parktool Rear Derailleur

29

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gear one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Parktool Rear Derailleur

30

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
31

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
32

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear and the shift the front derailleur so the chain is in the highest gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit Screw so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 32a
  • 32b
33

Align your bars to the front wheel.

34

Tighten stem cap bolt.

35

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

36

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
37

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt is tight

-your wheels are secured in place

-your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

8712.00.1520http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCUHCFQ/?tag=diamonbicycl-20AMAZON.COMhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/53/original/amazon.png?1414696388http://www.rei.com/product/876898/diamondback-octane-20-boys-bike-2015?cm_mmc=vl_diamondback-_-p2p-_-buy_now-_-productREIhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/52/original/rei.png?1409713847http://www.backcountry.com/diamondback-octane-20-kids-bike-2016?skid=DMB003K-RD-ONESIZ&ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6b2N0YW5lIDIwOjE6MTpvY3RhbmUgMjA=Backcountryhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/48/original/backcountry.png?1383262546http://www.competitivecyclist.com/diamondback-octane-20-complete-bike-2015?ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6ZGlhbW9uZGJhY2s6MToyOmRpYW1vbmRiYWNr&skidn=DMB001F-RD-S20INCompetitive Cyclisthttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/51/original/competitive-cyclist.png?1394742241http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1164215_-1___400863PERFORMANCE INC/BITECH INChttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/general/22/original/performance-bicycle.png?13832643745167Web ProfileRedhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5167/small/DB_15_Octane20_red_profile.jpg?1426109134http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5167/medium/DB_15_Octane20_red_profile.jpg?1426109134http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5167/large/DB_15_Octane20_red_profile.jpg?1426109134http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5167/xlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_profile.jpg?1426109134http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5167/xxlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_profile.jpg?1426109134bike media5168Web AngleRedhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5168/small/DB_15_Octane20_red_angle.jpg?1426109183http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5168/medium/DB_15_Octane20_red_angle.jpg?1426109183http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5168/large/DB_15_Octane20_red_angle.jpg?1426109183http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5168/xlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_angle.jpg?1426109183http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5168/xxlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_angle.jpg?1426109183bike media5868Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5868/small/DB_15_Octane20_red_BRAKE.jpg?1426109219http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5868/medium/DB_15_Octane20_red_BRAKE.jpg?1426109219http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5868/large/DB_15_Octane20_red_BRAKE.jpg?1426109219http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5868/xlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_BRAKE.jpg?1426109219http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5868/xxlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_BRAKE.jpg?14261092195869Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5869/small/DB_15_Octane20_red_DRIVE.jpg?1426109222http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5869/medium/DB_15_Octane20_red_DRIVE.jpg?1426109222http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5869/large/DB_15_Octane20_red_DRIVE.jpg?1426109222http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5869/xlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_DRIVE.jpg?1426109222http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5869/xxlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_DRIVE.jpg?14261092225870Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5870/small/DB_15_Octane20_red_FORKS.jpg?1426109226http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5870/medium/DB_15_Octane20_red_FORKS.jpg?1426109226http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5870/large/DB_15_Octane20_red_FORKS.jpg?1426109226http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5870/xlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_FORKS.jpg?1426109226http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5870/xxlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_FORKS.jpg?14261092265871Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5871/small/DB_15_Octane20_red_RD.jpg?1426109232http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5871/medium/DB_15_Octane20_red_RD.jpg?1426109232http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5871/large/DB_15_Octane20_red_RD.jpg?1426109232http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5871/xlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_RD.jpg?1426109232http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5871/xxlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_RD.jpg?14261092325872Detailhttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5872/small/DB_15_Octane20_red_SADDLE.jpg?1426109238http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5872/medium/DB_15_Octane20_red_SADDLE.jpg?1426109238http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5872/large/DB_15_Octane20_red_SADDLE.jpg?1426109238http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5872/xlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_SADDLE.jpg?1426109238http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/5872/xxlarge/DB_15_Octane20_red_SADDLE.jpg?14261092387043Lifestylehttp://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7043/small/octane-20-series-angle.jpg?1426109242http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7043/medium/octane-20-series-angle.jpg?1426109242http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7043/large/octane-20-series-angle.jpg?1426109242http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7043/xlarge/octane-20-series-angle.jpg?1426109242http://www.bikemastertool.com/media/bikes/7043/xxlarge/octane-20-series-angle.jpg?1426109242It's red for a reason: this bike is fast!

Ripping around on bikes get kids out for fresh air, fitness, and a whole lot of fun. The Octane 20 is the perfect bike for the job with its durable 6061 heat treated aluminum alloy frame and suspension fork to handle all of those neighborhood shenanigans.

6061 heat treated aluminum alloy construction and replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilitySuspension fork for smooth rideLinear pull brakes are simple and strongShimano 6-speed drivetrain for wide gear rangeDB 6061 heat-treated Aluminum with replaceable derailleur hanger.N/ATrail XC 30mm travelThreaded 1 1/8"140mm 1-Piece, 40tLooseballN/AShimano TZ-50Shimano RS35 Revo TwistShimano MF-HG37 6spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5136h Nutted36h Nutted14g36h R-1000 AlloyJr. ATB Knobby 20x2.0Alloy LinearAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustResinSteel Jr Riser 20.5" wide x 1" riseDB KratonAlloy QuillJr ATB 2 panelSteel Pillar 25.4mmClear coat, Chainstay Protector, Owner’s manual, rear derailleur guard300.0260.01447720"495.0280.0465.000100.070.071.0885.19380.037.0239.00.085.0520.0140.0280.00.00.040.00.0Diamondback1404Octane 242015Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainYouthYouth 242016 - Youth - 8-12
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.

  1. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable. When the handlebars are in the stem the right hand side should control the rear brake and rear derailleur while the left hand side should control the front brake and front derailleur.
  3. Loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

8

To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.

9

For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.

11

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

12

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.

13

The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.

14

Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

15

Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.

Note:

For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.

16

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

17

Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).

18

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.

19

Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.

20

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.

21

Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.

22

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

23

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

24

Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)

25

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

26

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

27

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 27a
  • 27b
28
  1. Incorrect Chain Line
  2. Correct Chain Line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Parktool Rear Derailleur

29

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gear one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Parktool Rear Derailleur

30

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
31

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
32

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear and the shift the front derailleur so the chain is in the highest gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the High limit Screw so that the outer Front Derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)

HELPFUL LINK:

Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

  • 32a
  • 32b
33

Align your bars to the front wheel.

34

Tighten stem cap bolt.

35

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

36

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.
37

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt is tight

-your wheels are secured in place

-your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

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Designed for adventures around the block and out on the trail, the Octane 24 is a great bike to get kids out having fun. The 6061 heat treated aluminum frame is super durable to handle any terrain, and the suspension fork helps keep them in control when things get bumpy.

6061 heat treated aluminum alloy construction and replaceable derailleur hanger for durabilitySuspension fork for smooth rideLinear pull brakes are simple and strongShimano 7-speed drivetrain for wide gear rangeDB 6061 heat-treated Aluminum with replaceable derailleur hanger.N/ATrail XC 40mm travelThreaded 1 1/8"MTB Alloy w/ chainguard 24/34/42tLooseballShimano TZ-20Shimano TZ-50Shimano RS35 Revo TwistShimano MF-HG37 7spd Freewheel (14-28t)KMC Z5136h Nutted36h Nutted14g36h R-1000 AlloyJr. ATB Knobby 24x2.1Alloy LinearAlloy Linear w/ reach AdjustResinSteel Jr Riser 23" wide x 1" riseDB KratonAlloy QuillJr ATB 3 panelSteel Pillar 25.4mmClear coat, Chainstay Protector, Owner’s manual, rear derailleur guard350.0300.01447924"546.0300.0500.000100.069.071.0958.85350.037.0282.00.085.0580.0165.0300.00.00.050.00.002-15-5070Diamondback2428Haanjenn Metro2016Road - Alternative RoadCityRoadPavementHaanjennCommuterAlternative Road2015 - Alternative Road - Womens - XS - LG
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Urban bike adventures are worth every pedal. Those of us who are lucky enough to be able to ride our bike to work know the value of leaving the car in the garage: from saving fuel money to getting a workout to actually enjoying your trip to work—imagine that! Heading out into the city is easy on our HaanJenn Metro: a women’s bike that’s designed to complement city living. Combining female-specific touchpoints and our Endurance Geometry, the aluminum frame and steel fork absorb road vibrations while you ride in a comfortable, upright position. Flat bars and ergonomic grips add familiar controls and confidence. We kept the drivetrain simple, with a dependable Shimano 1×9 setup with plenty of range for climbing hills. Tektro disc brakes and big Schwalbe tires ensure that you’ll have maximum control in all conditions. Keep this HaanJenn stock and sleek, or add racks and fenders for a utilitarian transporter, it’s up to you!

Butted and formed aluminum female-specific frame with Endurance Geometry Diamondback Urban Disc steel forkTektro Aires disc brakes, 160/140mm rotorsShimano Acera 1x9 drivetrainSchwalbe Citizen tires, with reflective strip and kevlar guard (700x42c)DB Womens Alternative Road, Endurance Geometry, Relaxed head angle, Fully Butted 6061-T6 Alloy Disc Specific frame, Formed Top tubeDB Urban Disc, Steel 1-1/8" Steerer, w/ Fender Mounts, Low Rider MountsFSA IS-3E Integrated Drop-in ACB 1 1/8"Forged Alloy Arm w/Single Ring 38T, Alloy ChainguardSealed CartridgeShimano Acera RD-T3000Shimano Acera SL-M3000 9spd (right only)Shimano HG200 9sp (11-34t)KMC Z9932h Alloy Disc32h Alloy Disc Cassette14g Stainless SteelDB Equation CX 32hSchwalbe Citizen, 700x42 w/ Kevlar Guard, Reflective StripTektro Aires Mechanical Disc, 160mm/140mm RotorsTektro 2 finger linear pullWellgo Alloy RoadDB Flat Bar, 640mm wide,31.8mmDB Dual Density GripsDB X-Durance, 3D Forged, +/-7° Rise 31.8DB EldoradoDB X-Durance, Alloy 27.2x350mmOwner’s Manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 Bottle Mounts700.029281XS/47cm707.0410.0500.000120.070.075.0996.0430.045.00.074.080.0640.0165.0350.0541.0380.00.00.029282S/50cm731.0440.0510.000130.071.074.5992.0430.045.00.074.080.0640.0170.0350.0554.0376.00.00.029283M/53cm756.0470.0535.000145.071.574.01008.0430.045.00.074.090.0640.0170.0350.0570.0376.00.00.029284L/56cm781.0500.0555.000160.072.073.01018.0430.045.00.074.090.0640.0172.5350.0586.0381.00.00.002-16-156002-16-156102-16-156202-16-1563Diamondback1405Tess 202015Mountain - Youth MountainYouth MountainYouthYouth 202016 - Youth - 6-10
Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike - Cantilever brakes

Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Cantilever brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting all zipties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to the closed position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  • 4a
  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.

  1. Do so by removing the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable. When the handlebars are in the stem the right hand side should control the rear brake and rear derailleur while the left hand side should control the front brake and front derailleur.
  3. Loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.

Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.

8

To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.

9

For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

10

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.

11

To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.

12

If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.

13

The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.

14

Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.

15

Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.

Note:

For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.

16

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

17

Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).

18

You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.

19

Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.

20

Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.

21

Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.

22

If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.

23

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

24

Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)

25

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

26

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

27

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 27a
  • 27b
28
  1. Incorrect Chain Line
  2. Correct Chain Line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Parktool Rear Derailleur

29

Now it’s time to make sure the rear deraill