Insight Disc
MSRP $750.00
 Details
Insight Disc

Getting around town safely and reliably are your most important objectives, and the flatbar Insight Disc is here to deliver. The Insight disc is a performance hybrid that sports an upright geometry with a faster rolling 700cc wheel. The 6061-T6 aluminum alloy frame is the standard for durability and the specially formed stays and more upright geometry ensure you’ll always enjoy a compliant, comfortable ride. The integrated Aero Carbon straight blade carbon fiber fork is the ultimate for smooth, confident handling, and the Avid disc brakes give you all the stopping power you could ever want. Round it out with a SRAM drivetrain and fast rolling 700c DB Equation wheels, and you can be sure that you’ll get where you want to go, no questions asked.

Highlights

  • 6061-T6 aluminum alloy frame w/ Integrated Aero Carbon straight blade fork
  • Frame and fork eyelets make it easy to mount rack and fenders
  • SRAM 8-speed drivetrain provides gears for any terrain
  • Avid disc brakes provide plenty of stopping power
  • DB Equation 700c Disc wheels
Media Hits
Size Guide
SizeNASM (16")MD (18")LG (20")XL (22")
Seat Tube Length **0.0"0.0"0.0"0.0"0.0"
Standover Height0.0"0.0"0.0"0.0"0.0"
Top Tube Length *0.0"0.0"0.0"0.0"0.0"
Head Tube Length0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm
Head Angle0.0°0.0°0.0°0.0°0.0°
Seat Angle0.0°0.0°0.0°0.0°0.0°
Chain Stay Length0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm
Fork Offset0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm
Stem Length0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm
Handlebar Width0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm
Crank Length0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm
Seat Post Length0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm0.0mm
* Measured Horizontally** Measured from Center
Specs
Sizes NA  SM (16")  MD (18")  LG (20")  XL (22") 
Frame Insight 6061-T6 Butted Aluminum Performance Hybrid w/ Formed / Hooded Top Tube, Integrated Headtube, Vertical Compliance Stays, (VCS), Disk Brake Mount
Fork Insight Integrated Aero Carbon Straight Blade w/ Disk Brake Mount
Headset Integrated "Cane Creek" Size Drop-in ACB 1 1/8"
Cranks SRAM VIA C3.0
Bottom Bracket Sealed Cartridge
F. Derailleur SRAM X4 VIA Ø31.8 Down Pull
R. Derailleur SRAM VIA Long Cage 8 SPD
Shifter SRAM VIA 8SPD w/ V-Brake Lever
Cogset Shimano HG-31 8spd Cassette (11-32t)
Chain KMC-Z82
Brakes Avid BB5 Disk Brake Set w/ 6" Rotors
Brake Levers Avid FR5 Brake Levers
Front Hub 32h Alloy QR w/ CNC Disk Mount
Rear Hub
Spokes Black 14g Stainless Steel
Rims 32h Equation R23 Doublewall
Tires Kenda Kwick Trax 700x32c
Handlebar DB 31.8mm low rise Alloy
Grips Diamondback Dual Density Comfort Grip
Stem DB 3D Forged 7° 31.8mm
Seatpost Alloy Micro Adjust 27.2mm
Seat DB Performance Hybrid w/ Gel
Colors Black
Extras Owner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mounts
Note Specifications Subject to Change
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Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike (Disc Brakes)

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Please be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm Allen wrenches; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble your bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it safely. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

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3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the wheel and removing all of the packing material from the frame
  2. Unpack handlebar by cutting all zip ties/ removing any packaging that may be holding parts together.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so.

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4

Install seat post into frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seat post before inserting it. For bikes with carbon seat posts use the supplied “Carbon Paste” contained in the small parts box.
  2. Insert the seat post into the seat tube. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom). Finish by using the correct hex head torque wrench to tighten. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
    NOTE: seat clamp bolts are typically tightened to a MAX of 5nm and noted on seat clamp.
  3. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 of the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.

When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on you height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 of the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.

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5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet to assemble bike.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next remove the stem bolts and face plate.
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
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7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. Most bars will offer some guidance using painted marks on the bar.

8

When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (Use an “X” pattern for four bolt stems) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side.

9

The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm. Refer to stem manufacturers marking on stem.

10

Installation of front brake caliper and brake.

AVID MECHANICAL Brakes:

  1. Loosen the CPS bolts, then bolt the caliper to the mounting tabs. Tighten the mounting. Check that the caliper moves freely on the CPS hardware. . You will tighten the caliper down completely once the wheel is installed. TRP HY/RD (“HIGH ROAD”) –MECHCANICAL/HYDRO
11

Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.

12

Now install skewer in the front wheel.

  1. Before installing the skewer check the rotor bolts to make sure they are tightened to the specified torques.
  2. Remove the non-lever side of the skewer and one spring. Proceed to insert the skewer through the front wheel axle. The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike).
  3. Place the spring on the skewer (smaller points in towards the hub and spokes) and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
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13

Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure the disc sits in between caliper pads. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking once the brake is used. The tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer – tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.
  2. Make sure wheel is centered in the fork.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that hard to close or open.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
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14

Set up of front Brake Caliper

  1. INSTALL THE CABLE

    1. Make sure the barrel adjuster is screwed all the way in before installing the cable.
    2. Pass the brake wire through the barrel adjuster and then the anchor bolt on the actuating arm. Remove cable slack. Be careful not to advance the torque arm as you pull the cable.
    3. Tighten cable anchor bolt to the specified torque. Use the barrel adjuster at the brake lever to remove any remaining cable slack (if there is any).
      Important: after the cable is anchored, check to be sure there is no more than 20 mm (3/4 in) of excess cable beyond the anchor bolt. Trim as necessary.
    4. Install the cable end cap and crimp the cable end cap to keep the cable from fraying.
  2. ALIGN THE CALIPER

    1. Use your fingers or a Torx® wrench to turn the inboard pad adjustment knob clockwise until the rotor is centered in the caliper. This positions the pads for the next step in the installation.
    2. Make sure the CPS bolts are loose enough for the caliper to move freely.
    3. Squeeze the brake lever to compress the brake pads firmly on the rotor. NOTE: Do not squeeze the cable actuated hydraulic disc brake levers if the front rotor is not in between the brake pads.
    4. While still holding the brake lever, tighten the CPS bolts. Once the bolts are tight you can let go of the brake lever.
  3. ADJUST THE BRAKE PADS

    1. Back the adjustment knob off (counterclockwise) until the rotor spins freely.
    2. Now you can dial the pad in or out until you find the brake action you prefer (make sure, of course, that there’s no drag on the rotor). If you can’t seem to get the feel you like, or the rotor is dragging, repeat the brake adjustment process.

For the cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes please use the following video for set up.

TRP HY/RD (“HIGH ROAD”) –MECHCANICAL/HYDRO VIDEO

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15

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.

16

Start by hand threading in the left pedal (this will be indicated by an “L” on either the end of the pedal spindle or on the pedal axle), non-drive side (left side when sitting on the bike) pedal, into the left/non-drive side crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).

17

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an “R” on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when seated on the bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

18

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the lowest gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.
  2. Correct chain line
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19

Now it is time to make sure the high limit screw is set so the chain does not fall between the highest gear and the frame. While pedaling the bike, shift rear derailleur to highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Check the adjustment of the high adjustment screw (“H” stamped on derailleur) is set to ensure that the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the high gear (smallest cog) and into the high gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog

Rear Derailleur

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20

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear/right shifter lever (when sitting on the bike) should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cables tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link:

Rear Derailleur

21

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure that the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if thyere are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
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22

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
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23

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the largest chainring.

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on derailleur)

Additional Help Link

Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

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24

Align your bars to the front wheel.

25

While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

26

Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

27

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time and make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes brakes are functioning properly

-the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage

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