Podium E'tape
MSRP $2700.00
 Details
Podium E'tape

The Podium Etape is a lightweight and aero race-ready steed for competition or your next gran fondo. The most aerodynamic road bike we’ve ever made, its carbon fiber frame features our Advanced Monocoque Molding SLP process. Each frame is hand built according to a detailed layup schedule to ensure a compliant and responsive ride for long days in the saddle. We use mix of carbon laminates throughout the frame, maximizing response and compliance where each is required. The fork utilizes Continuous Fiber Technology and an oversized tapered head tube to deliver stable handling, instilling confidence on tricky descents. The oversized down tube and ultra-stiff bottom bracket allow the bike to accelerate at the drop of a hat, transferring near instant power to the ground. Equipped with a Shimano 105 groupset, this bike is ready for riders looking to take their results to the next tier.

Highlights

  • Hand built AMMP SLP carbon frame utilizes an advanced mix of carbon to achieve an unbelievable ride
  • 11-speed Shimano 105 drivetrain
  • HED Flanders C2+ wheelset
  • Unidirectional monocoque carbon fork with Continuous Fiber Technology, tapered steer tube, and carbon dropouts
  • Internal cable routing is clean and aero
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Size Guide
SizeS/52cmM/54cmL/56cmXL/58cmXXL/60cm
Seat Tube Length **490.0mm510.0mm530.0mm550.0mm570.0mm
Standover Height755.0mm766.0mm786.0mm802.0mm828.0mm
Top Tube Length *530.0mm545.0mm560.0mm575.0mm590.0mm
Stack539.0mm552.0mm567.0mm579.0mm603.0mm
Reach376.0mm380.0mm387.0mm398.0mm402.0mm
Head Tube Length135.0mm150.0mm165.0mm180.0mm205.0mm
Head Angle72.3°72.8°73.0°73.0°73.0°
Seat Angle74.0°73.3°73.0°73.0°75.2°
Chain Stay Length405.0mm405.0mm405.0mm405.0mm405.0mm
Fork Offset45.0mm45.0mm45.0mm45.0mm45.0mm
BB Drop72.5mm70.0mm70.0mm67.5mm67.5mm
Stem Length90.0mm100.0mm100.0mm110.0mm120.0mm
Handlebar Width400.0mm420.0mm420.0mm440.0mm440.0mm
Crank Length170.0mm172.5mm172.5mm175.0mm175.0mm
Seat Post Length300.0mm300.0mm300.0mm300.0mm300.0mm
* Measured Horizontally** Measured from Center
 
Specs
Sizes S/52cm  M/54cm  L/56cm  XL/58cm  XXL/60cm 
Frame DBR AmmP+ Carbon Technology, Specific Modulous, Monocoque Competition Road Frame, internal cable routing, Carbon Drop outs, w/Taper headtube, Press-Fit 30 BB, Di2/EPS Compatible
Fork DBR AmmP+ Carbon Competition Road Fork, Carbon Drop outs, w/Taper Carbon steerer tube, CFT Continuous Fiber Technology
Headset FSA No.42 , Sealed ACB for Taper Headtube
Cranks FSA Gossamer Pro, 53/39T
Bottom Bracket PRESS FIT 30
F. Derailleur Shimano 105 FD-5800, Braze-on
R. Derailleur Shimano 105 RD-5800 11spd
Shifter Shimano 105 ST-5800 Dual Control 11spd
Cogset Shimano CS-5800 105 11spd (12-25t)
Chain FSA CN1101 11spd
Brakes Tektro R540 dual pivot
Brake Levers Shimano 105 ST-5800 Dual Control 11spd
Front Hub Sealed Cartridge 20h
Rear Hub Sealed Cartridge 24h
Spokes 14g Stainless Steel
Rims HED Flanders C2+, 20h/24h
Tires Continental Ultra Sport II 700x23
Handlebar HED Grand Tour,7050 AL,31.8
Grips DBR Race tape w/Gel
Stem DBR 3D forged, +/-7 degree, 31.8
Seatpost HED Unidirectional Carbon post 27.2mm, Di2 Compatible
Seat Prologo Zero-II, w/Cromo Rail
Colors Raw Carbon Gloss
Extras Owner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mounts
Note Specifications Subject to Change
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Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Road Bike

1

Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

2

Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

  • 2a
  • 2b
  • 2c
3

Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Detach the wheel by cutting all zipties
  2. Detach handlebar by cutting all zipties that may be holding parts together. Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so
  3. Begin removing all of the packing material from the frame.
  • 3a
  • 3a
  • 3a
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  • 3b
  • 3b
4

Install the seat post and seat.

  1. Loosen the seat clamp and insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. For bikes with a Carbon seatpost use the supplied “Carbon Paste” contained in the small parts box.
  2. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by using the correct hex wrench to tighten. DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS. NOTE: seat clamp bolts are typically tightened to a MAX of 5nm and noted on seat clamp.

When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 of the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.

  • 4a
  • 4b
  • 4c
  • 4c
5

Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.

6

It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right (when sitting on the bike) will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left (when sitting on the bike) will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next remove the stem bolts and face plate. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
  • 6a
  • 6a
  • 6b
  • 6b
7

Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. Most bars will offer some guidance using painted marks on the bar.

8

When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately (Use an “X” pattern for four bolt stems) to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side.

9

The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. DO NOT OVERTIGHTENESPECIALLY ON CARBON PRODUCTS. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm. Refer to stem manufacturers marking on stem.

10

Now that your handlebars and seatpost are securely fastened, it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle.

11

Now install skewer through the axle of the front wheel.

  1. Remove the non-lever side of skewer, as well as one spring, and proceed to insert through the front wheel axle.
  2. Put the spring back on the skewer. Note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of spring points in towards hub and spokes).
  3. Thread the skewer nut back on a few turns.
  • 11
  • 11a
  • 11a
  • 11a
  • 11a
  • 11a
  • 11b
  • 11c
12

Mount the front wheel on the fork:

  1. Insert wheel into front fork. Make sure wheel is centered in fork.
  2. Once wheel is in the fork tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. The quick release part of the skewer should be on the non-drive, left (when sitting on the bike) side.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that it is hard to close or open.
    2. When closed, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12a
  • 12b
  • 12b
  • 12bi
  • 12bi
  • 12bii
  • 12biii
13

Once the wheel is in and secure, it’s now time to mount the front brake caliper to the fork.

  1. Start by unscrewing the recessed brake bolt from the bolt on the caliper.
  2. Insert the caliper bolt through the front of the fork crown.
  3. Thread the recessed brake bolt through the back, securing the caliper.
  4. The caliper brake pads should be approximately spaced evenly on both sides of the wheel.
  • 13a
  • 13b
  • 13b
  • 13b
  • 13c
  • 13c
  • 13c
  • 13c
  • 13d
14

Connect the front Brake Cable:

  1. Run the front brake cable through the barrel adjuster and seat the cable into the barrel adjuster.
  2. Feed the cable through the caliper cable anchor bolt.
  3. To set brake, open cable quick release lever.
  4. Squeeze caliper arms together while pulling down on the cable. Keep pressure on caliper arms and tighten the cable anchor bolt.
  • 14a
  • 14b
  • 14b
  • 14c
  • 14d
  • 14d
15

Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled.

  1. Grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt.
  2. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire.
  3. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface by squeezing the brake lever.
  • 15a
  • 15b
  • 15c
16

Close the quick release lever on the brake caliper. Squeeze the brake lever as far as you can to the bar to “stretch” the cable.

17

Once your front brake cable is properly adjusted, cut excess cable off leaving approximately 1.5" of cable. Install cable end cap and crimp cable end cap to avoid the cable from fraying.

18

For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to the threads of each pedal before installing.

19

Start by hand threading in the left (this should be indicated by an L on either the end of the pedal spindle or pedal axle), non-drive side pedal (when seated on the bike) into the left/non-drive crank arm. Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left (counter clockwise).

20

Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right (clockwise).

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.

21

Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.

22

Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear (largest cog) and into the spokes of the rear wheel.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line
  • 22
  • 22a
  • 22b
23

While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear.

24

Check the adjustment of the high limit screw (“H” stamped on the rear derailleur) to ensure the derailleur cannot shift the chain past the high gear (smallest cog) and into the frame.

  1. Incorrect Chain line
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheels should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog. For more information on rear derailleur adjustments please follow the link below.

Rear Derailleur

  • 24
  • 24a
  • 24b
25

Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

ADDITIONAL HELP LINK

Rear Derailleur

26

Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure the chain is sitting on the smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
  • 26a
  • 26b
27

Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest (largest) cog in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest cog) in the front.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front Low set screw so that inner plate is approx.. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
  • 27
  • 27a
  • 27b
28

Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the high gear (largest chainring).

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit Screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on derailleur)

ADDITIONAL HELP LINK

Front Derailleur

  • 28
  • 28a
  • 28b
29

Align your bars to the front wheel.

30

Tighten stem cap bolt.

31

While handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.

32

Now it’s time to inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

33

Last step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

  1. every bolt is tight
  2. that your wheels are secured in place, so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly
  3. that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them.

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services. Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback

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