Feeling a little cooped up and just need to get away for a little while to gain a new perspective on your day? What you need is a mountain bike like the Outlook that will let you enjoy some fresh air and exercise without breaking your bank. The MTB double diamond steel frame is built for hassle free durability, and it comes with eyelets so you can mount it up with a rack and fenders if you want to. Add to that a suspension fork and smooth rolling 27.5" wheels to soak up all the bumps and potholes in your way, and you’re rolling through your day with a whole new outlook on life.
Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them. For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys.
If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.
Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.
Once you have the bike box opened:
Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.
Now that your bike is out of the box:
Install seat post to frame:
Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.
It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem.
Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. Use an “X” pattern when tightening the bolts.
NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.
Some bikes may arrive without a front/rear brake cable installed. Use the following steps if this applies to your bike.
To connect linear pull brakes, set adjusting barrel at the lever so slots line up with slot opening in lever.
For the rear brake, you’ll need to release tension on the cable. Start by squeezing the brake arms together in order to release the cable noodle. Next take the the other end of the rear cable and begin connecting to brake lever (the right hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull the brake lever to the grip exposing the juncture where the cable enters the lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.
Your brake pads may need adjusting once brake is assembled. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the brake pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface. Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the rear brake cable noodle.
To reconnect the rear brake pull on the aluminum cable noodle in one hand while hooking the lower end of the noodle into the slotted link on the brake arm. If it is too difficult to connect the noodle you have to release a little cable tension by loosening the cable anchor bolt and giving the cable a little more slack. Make sure to re-tighten the anchor bolt.
If the cable tension needs to be increased for better braking, loosen the cable anchor bolt. Remove excess cable slack and re-tighten the cable anchor bolt.
The front brake is set up exactly like the rear. First release the cable noodle from the brake levers by squeezing lever arms together.
Lineup barrel adjustor slots with the slot in the front brake lever (the left hand side lever when sitting on the bike). Pull lever to expose juncture where cable connects to lever. Insert the round cable narp (cable end) into lever and guide cable through the designated cable slot on handle. Then place end of cable housing into barrel adjuster. Turn the barrel adjuster so that slots no longer line up with lever slot.
Your brake pads will need adjusting following the installation of the front wheel (next step). Prior to placing wheel in fork, pre-adjust pads for when you are ready to correctly adjust.
For wheel removal: the noodle may be unhooked from the arm link. This will allow the brake to open up wide enough to clear a wider width tire. First, pull the boot away from the end of the noodle. Then squeeze the brake arms together with one hand while unhooking the lower end of the noodle from the keyhole-shaped slot in the arm link.
Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the axle. Please note that some hubs have little spacers which are pressed loosely onto the axle. Be sure not to throw these spacers away with the safety caps.
Now install the skewer through the axle of the front wheel. Remove the non-lever side of skewer as well as one spring and proceed to insert the skewer through front wheel axle. Put the spring back on the skewer and thread the skewer nut back on a few turns. Please note the correct positioning of the springs on the skewer when mounting (smaller part of the spring points in towards hub and spokes).
You can now mount the front wheel on the fork. Make sure that the fork is pointing in the correct direction (the brake should be at the front of the fork, not behind it). Note that the quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Make sure the wheel is centered in fork.
Next tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly. Then start to close the skewer lever. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much so that it is hard to close or open.
Now it’s time to adjust the front brakes. Release the spring from brake lever arm. Next, grasp brake pad with one hand and loosen brake pad bolt. Align pad to be parallel with rim surface and retighten brake bolt. You do not want the pad to come into contact with the tire. Check to make sure pad is hitting squarely in center of rim braking surface.
Reconnect the lever spring prior to reconnecting the front brake cable noodle.
If the front or rear brake pads are not hitting the braking surface of the rim evenly – one pad is hitting the rim braking surface before the other – use the cantilever spring tension screws to adjust. For example, if the left brake pad is hitting the rim brake-surface sooner than that of the brake pad on the right, give the spring tension adjustment screw on the right side lever a turn or two to increase spring tension.
For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.
Start by hand threading in the left (when seated on the bike), non-drive side pedal. The left pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter-clockwise)
Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)
Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.
Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest gear (largest cog) in the rear.
Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so to ensure it hits the stop and the derailleur cannot shift past the lowest gear and into the spokes of the rear wheel.
For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. Shimano the derailleur jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog
Parktool Rear Derailleur
Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the shifter lever should correspond to the chain moving up the gear one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.
Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment is correct.
Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back. Make sure the front derailleur is set so that the chain is in the lowest gear (smallest chainring) in the front.
Next, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the rear and the shift the front derailleur so the chain is in the highest gear (largest chainring).
Parktool Front Derailleur
As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chain ring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.
Align your bars to the front wheel.
Tighten stem cap bolt.
While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.
Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended air pressure (measured in PSI) on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.
The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:
-every bolt is tight
-your wheels are secured in place
-your front and rear brakes are functioning properly, that the handle bars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them, and that your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings.
If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.
Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.
Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.
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