Mission Pro
MSRP $6500.00
Mission Pro

Throw a leg over a Mission Pro 27.5 and you will instantly know you’re on a high-level piece of equipment. Packing 160mm of point-and-shoot full suspension travel, this 27.5” wheeled All Mountain bike wants to tear into rough, steep terrain, looking for hits and drops that would have the amateurs searching for a B-line. The KnuckleBox suspension never backs down, and the Shimano XT disc brakes are on hand to make sure things never get too rowdy. The FOX Float CTD suspension reduces pedal induced motion without compromising small bump compliance. When it comes time to pedal again, this platform will deliver you to the top efficiently and comfortably, so you have more energy for another rip back down.


  • Hand built All Mountain 160mm travel 6061-T6 weapons grade aluminum frame with KnuckleBox suspension is super stiff and ultra durable
  • Single-sided hardware on the non drive side of the main pivots for easy service
  • FOX 34 Float CTD Adjust FIT Kashima air fork and Float X rear shock is a staple for all mountain riding
  • SRAM X01 1x11-speed drivetrain is ideal for All Mountain riding
  • Easton Haven wheelset is stiff and light.
  • RaceFace Next Carbon crank and narrowwide rig is the lightest on the market
  • Shimano XT hydraulic disc brakes
Media Hits

    It's mountain biking's big moment. Here's how to make the most of it. Call it the peak rush: more riders are hitting the mountains than ever before. And not just serious cyclists- everyone from celebrities to Silicon Valley entrepreneurs is taking two wheels to the trails.


    To Hoon: Hoon is a term used mostly in Australia and New Zealand, to refer to anyone who engages in loutish, anti-social behaviours. In particular it is used to refer to one who drives a car, boat (or mountain bike) in a manner which is anti-social by the standards of contemporary society, i.e. too fast, too noisily or too dangerously.


    "I never would have said it if I thought it would really happen. Mere seconds after I quipped, “Wouldn’t it be funny if that bike flew off the rack?” a neon orange Diamondback Mission Pro was hovering 20 feet in the air and traveling about 70 mph on I-70 just west of the Colorado/Utah border. Strong, gusty winds had somehow flicked the bike off the top of the roof rack of the van in front of us, and slammed it down on the freeway. (Note: We were on a press trip and it wasn’t my test bike.)


    Diamondback Bicycles released their all new Mission Pro earlier this year and we have had the luxury of riding and testing it for the past several months. We were glad to see this new iteration of their Knucklebox suspension design as we had ridden previous versions (with the triangle shaped linkage) and been somewhat underwhelmed by the previous performance. No such worries now, the new Mission Pro 27.5 is legit and delivers for the rider worthy of really pushing the limits. This is the bike that will help Diamondback build its core mountain bike following up.


    Reshaped for the Mission, the new Knucklebox provides the same buttery suspension feel we love in a tighter package. At nearly 32 pounds, you’d expect the 160-millimeter Mission Pro to putter along, sucking the life out of the poor soul pedaling it. Actually, the Mission wears its weight well, scooting up climbs and through undulating trail with surprising ease for a bike designed for downs.


    We spent an entire day doing lift-served runs at Angel Fire, and the bike was agile and deft even on the steepest, burliest terrain. It isn’t an especially plush ride. The suspension feels hard-edged, like it’s tuned to race. We suppose this makes sense in a way given that the Mission is aimed at the enduro market. And in the end, an aggressive, stiff-feeling bike is generally a good thing when slamming through meaty roots and long rock fields.


    They have taken the triangulated Kuncklebox of old and redesigned it to allow the shock to be moved forward in the frame, so that it now connects to the bike’s downtube instead of the old top tube mount.

Size Guide
Size15.5" Small17" Medium19" Large21" XLarge
Seat Tube Length **15.0"17.0"19.0"21.0"
Standover Height30.0"30.5"31.5"32.0"
Top Tube Length *22.0"23.0"24.0"25.0"
Head Tube Length105.0mm105.0mm120.0mm140.0mm
Head Angle66.5°66.5°66.5°66.5°
Seat Angle73.0°73.0°73.0°73.0°
Chain Stay Length451.0"451.0"451.0"451.0"
Fork Offset44.0mm44.0mm44.0mm44.0mm
BB Height342.0"342.0"342.0"342.0"
BB Drop2.0mm2.0mm2.0mm2.0mm
Stem Length50.0mm50.0mm50.0mm50.0mm
Handlebar Width785.0mm785.0mm785.0mm785.0mm
Crank Length170.0mm175.0mm175.0mm175.0mm
Seat Post Length420.0mm420.0mm420.0mm420.0mm
* Measured Horizontally** Measured from Center

Diamondback Bicycles - Mission Technology

Sizes 15.5" Small  17" Medium  19" Large  21" XLarge 
Frame Mission All Mountain 27.5, 160mm 6061-T6 Weapons Grade Aluminum w/Hydroformed Top Tube, Butted / Formed Down Tube / Seatstays, Under Arch Seatstay bridge, Tapered Head Tube Knuckle Box Technology, ISCG 05, 142x12mm E-Thru Axle Drop out
Fork Fox 34 Float CTD adjust FIT, Kashima, 160mm travel, w/ ext. rebound, butted Alloy 1.5 Tapered steerer, 34mm Easton aluminum stanchions, magnesium lowers, w/QR15mm Thru Axle
Rear Shock Fox Float X, CTD adjust, Kashima, "LV" eyelet, 8.5x2.5" Air, DB Mission Spec, w/rebound adj, w/Climb, Trail, Descend, w/3 levels pedal platform
Headset FSA No57 Taper 1.5 / 1 1/8" Alloy cups, Sealed Cartridge
Cranks Raceface Next SL 30T, NarrowWide Single Ring
Bottom Bracket Raceface Outboard Bearing
F. Derailleur
R. Derailleur SRAM X01 X-Horizon, Type 2 11spd
Shifter SRAM X01 11spd trigger (rear only)
Cogset SRAM XG-1195 XO 11spd Cassette (10-42t)
Chain SRAM PC-XX1 Power Link
Brakes Shimano XT M785 Hydraulic Disc, Rotors - XT ICE 6-bolt, 180mm Front/180mm Rear
Brake Levers Shimano XT M785 with reach adj
Front Hub Easton HAVEN 24h, 15mm Thru Axle, Alloy Sealed Cartridge Bearing Disc
Rear Hub Easton HAVEN 24h, 142x12 Thru Axle, Alloy Sealed Cartridge Bearing Disc, SRAM Compatable 11spd Driver, w/ Shimano E-thru QR Axle
Spokes Easton SAPIM butted Spokes
Rims Easton HAVEN 24h, 27.5" Clincher - UST
Tires Schwalbe Hans Dampf 27.5x2.35, folding, tubeless ready, snakeskin sidewall, TSC compound
Handlebar Raceface Atlas 785mm riser bar 31.8mm
Grips DB4L "Lock on" 135mm Kraton
Stem Raceface Atlas,50mm 31.8mm
Seatpost RockShox Reverb Stealth Dropper 30.9mm
Seat DB Race M-series saddle w/hollow ti alloy rails
Colors Rocket Red
Extras Knuckle Box Shock Pump, , Owner’s manual / Mission owner's manual cover, Chainstay Protector, H20 bottle mounts
Note Specifications Subject to Change
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Unpacking and Assembling Your Diamondback Mountain Bike (Hydraulic Disc Brakes)


Begin by carefully opening the box. Be aware of the sharp staples that may have been used to secure the box and be mindful not to cut yourself on them.

For assembly you will need: cutters/scissors; #2 Philips head screwdriver; a 4,5,6mm allen keys; and a T-25 Torx wrench.

If for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself, it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We recommend taking all bikes in for a safety check before riding. They may charge you a fee to do any of these services.

Any damage caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.


Once you have the bike box opened:

  1. Remove the saddle and seatpost.
  2. Remove the small parts box.
  3. Remove the bike.

Before proceeding, be sure that all parts and material are now removed from the box.

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Now that your bike is out of the box:

  1. Begin by detaching the front wheel by cutting the zipties holding it to bike.
  2. Unpack the handlebar by cutting any zipties/removing any packaging.

Be very careful not to cut any of the bikes shifter or brake cables while doing so. Then carefully remove all of the packing material from the frame.

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Install seat post to frame:

  1. Loosen the seat clamp
  2. Insert the seatpost into the seat tube. If you have bike grease you can apply a small amount to the seatpost before inserting it. Make sure that you have inserted the post past the minimum insertion/maximum extension line (printed on post near bottom).
  3. Finish by either clamping down the quick release lever or using a hex wrench to tighten (depending on which style you have). QR Seatpost clamp should have some resistance when closing, but not so much that it takes a lot of force to get it to close position. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
  4. When the bike is fully assembled you will then be able to fine tune the saddle adjustment based on your height. Refer to the Saddle Position section on page 12 in the DB Owner’s Manual for guidance.
  5. If you are assembling a 2015 Sortie 3, Mason Pro, Mission 2 or Mission Pro please check the dropper seat post manufacturer’s website for proper instructions on how to install that post.
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Position your bike in a comfortable working position. If you have a bike stand, that’s your best bet.


It’s now time to install your handlebar to the stem. Begin by making sure the cables are in the correct position – cables are not twisted or kinked and the shifter and brake lever on the right will control the rear of the bike while the shifter and brake lever on the left will control the front of the bike.

  1. Next, remove the stem bolts and faceplate,
  2. Place the bar in the stem and loosely re-secure the faceplate to the stem. Be sure that your cable routing is suitable and that there are no harsh bends or kinks in the cable.
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Once the handlebar is loosely placed in the stem, make sure that it is positioned correctly and symmetrically before tightening the faceplate bolts. When tightening the bolts, tighten them alternately and equally to ensure that the faceplate is equally tight on every side. (use an “X” pattern for four bolt stems) The gap opening between the faceplate and the stem should be equal both on the top and on the bottom. NOTE: stem bolts are typically tightened to 4nm.


Install Rear Brake Cable Clamp


Set up of front (and rear) disc brakes:

  1. Make sure cable is run correctly along fork – ensure that the fork is in the correct position (the fork arch should be pointing forward, not towards the rear of the bike).

    1. Front cable should run in front of derailleur and rear brake cables.
    2. Run cable thru fork guide
    3. Run cable/caliper along inside of fork
  2. Install Front Caliper

    1. Top bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
    2. Bottom Bolt – start by getting bolt threading started by hand
  3. Leave a little play in caliper, do not completely tighten top and bottom caliper bolt yet. Completion of front brake set up will happen after front wheel is installed.
  4. Leave caliper block in! (This is the piece of plastic between the caliper pads. It is a good idea to keep this piece of plastic so you can use it whenever the front wheel is not on the bike.)

Many of the mountain bikes will come with the front disc caliper installed. For set up and fine tuning adjustments specific to your model of brakes refer to the manufacturer’s installation guides for set up and adjustment.

AVID XO, Elixir 1 & 5, DB 1

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Now it’s time to get your front wheel ready for installation. Start by pulling the plastic protective caps off of the disc/axle.


Some bikes may come with the front disc not installed on the wheel. NOTE: Try not to touch the flat side of the rotor (or minimally touch it) as that can cause squeaking. Prepare to install the front disc rotor. The disc and rotor bolts will be in the small parts box. Before attaching the front wheel, you’ll want to secure the rotor to the wheel using the supplied bolts. Make sure to pay attention to the rotation direction of the rotor which will be marked on the disc with a direction arrow.

All disc bolts should be checked prior to front wheel installation to make sure they are tight to manufacturer’s specs.


Next is to mount the front wheel on the fork – make sure fork is in the correct position before mounting wheel (fork arch should be pointing forward):

  1. If your bike comes with a standard quick release lever: The quick release lever should be on the non-drive side of the bike (the left hand side when you’re sitting on the bike). Please note the correct positioning of the springs (smaller part of the spring points in towards the hub and spokes) and make sure that there is a spring on each side of the wheel. Insert skewer thru hub axle. Place spring on skewer and then tighten skewer nut a few turns. Proceed to step 13. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags.
  2. For bikes with a thru axle – please refer to attached guide from FOX on correct procedure when installing your front wheel with a thru axle system: Fox Thru Axle Instructions Here. Proceed to step 13.
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Some tires will have a directional arrow indicating which way the tire should rotate. If the tire does please make sure the tire will be spinning in the correct direction once on the bike.


Make sure you remove the block spacer from front hydraulic brake caliper. DO NOT SQUEEZE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WITHOUT BLOCK OR WHEEL WITH DISC INSTALLED.


Install the front wheel so that the disc is on the same side as the caliper, being careful to make sure disc sits in between caliper pads and the tire should also be centered in fork.

  1. Quick Release Skewer- tighten the skewer nut until it touches the fork lightly.

    1. Then start to close the skewer lever.
    2. Once tightened, make sure that the QR lever is tucked up to avoid snags. The QR lever should close with some resistance, but not too much that hard to close or open.
    3. Most levers are stamped with “close” to indicate quick release is closed.
  2. Thru Axle

    1. Install Wheel, disc/caliper alignment
    2. Insert Thru Axle and tighten
    3. Close lever
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Complete Front Brake set up.

  1. Squeeze front brake lever – do not squeeze brake lever if the wheel and caliper are not installed.
  2. While holding the front brake lever, alternate tightening the top and bottom caliper bolts, until tight to manufacturer’s specifications.
  3. Spin wheel to make sure disc passes between caliper brake pads.
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For pedal installation, your pedals will show what side they are meant to go on with an “L” or “R” on the end of the spindle or axle (depending on the pedal). We recommend applying a small amount of grease to each pedals thread before installing.


Start by hand threading in the left, non-drive side (when seated on the bike) pedal. The pedal will be indicated by an L on either the spindle or the axle (depending on the pedal). Tighten by turning your 15mm to the left. (counter clockwise)


Take the right pedal (this should be indicated by an R on the pedal which can be seen on the end of the spindle or on the axle depending on the pedal) and thread into the drive side crank arm (right side when facing forward on bike). Tighten by turning your 15mm pedal wrench to the right. (clockwise)

Do not force a pedal that will not thread on easily or you can cross thread the crank arm which will result in a damaged product. Damage caused by improper pedal installation will not be covered under warranty.


Now it is time to make sure the front and rear derailleurs are set properly. While pedaling bike, shift rear derailleur to lowest (largest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that low adjustment screw (“L” stamped on derailleur) is set so it hits the stop so that derailleur cannot shift past that gear and into rear wheel spokes.
  2. Correct chain line
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While pedaling the bike, shift the rear derailleur to highest gear(smallest cog) in the rear.

  1. Make sure that High adjustment screw (“H” stamped on Derailleur) is set to ensure it hits the stop so the derailleur cannot shift the chain past that gear and into the bike frame.
  2. Correct chain line

For proper rear derailleur alignment and adjustment, please refer to the manufacture’s instructions for your specific derailleur model. On Shimano rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up directly below smallest cog. On SRAM rear derailleurs, the jockey wheel should line up just to the right of the smallest cog.

Rear derailleur adjustments

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Now it’s time to make sure the rear derailleur will shift appropriately up and down the rear cog set. Proper shifting is all related to cable tension. Begin by pedaling the bike with the chain in the highest gear (smallest cog). Each “click” of the rear/right shifter should correspond to the chain moving up the gears one cog at a time. To adjust the cable’s tension, use the adjusting barrel at the rear derailleur/or at the shifter to tune the shifting. If the chain shifts past the desired gear, the cable tension is too high. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise to ease cable tension. If chain is not shifting to desired gear, turn adjusting barrel counterclockwise to increase tension on cable until chain shifts to desired gear.

Additional help link:

Parktool Rear Derailleur


Next, adjust the front derailleur. Check to make sure front derailleur height and alignment are correct.

  1. Set derailleur angle so outside plate lines up with large chain ring. Make sure the chain is sitting on th smallest chainring (if there are only two) or the middle chainring (if there are three).
  2. Check height of derailleur using guide sticker on derailleur. If there is not a guide sticker, the outside front derailleur plate should sit about 2mm above larger chain ring on crank.
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Now it’s time to set front derailleur adjustment screws. To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its lowest gear (largest cog) in the back and the small chainring on the cranks.

  1. Check the distance of chain to inner plate of front derailleur
  2. Set front low set screw so that inner plate is approx. 1-2mm from chain. (“L” stamped on Derailleur)
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To start this step, shift the rear derailleur so that the bike is in its highest gear (smallest cog) in the back and the shift the front derailleur into the largest chainring.

  1. Check the distance of chain to outer plate of front derailleur
  2. Set the high limit screw so that the outer front derailleur plate is approximately 1-2mm from chain. (“H” stamped on Derailleur)


Parktool Front Derailleur

As a last step, shift through the rear gears starting out in the smaller chainring on the cranks and then in the larger to make sure that the shifting runs smoothly.

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Align your bars to the front wheel.


Tighten stem cap bolt.


While the handlebars are still aligned with the front wheel tighten the stem bolts. Most stems have a 4nm maximum torque setting.


Inflate your tires. Each tire will have a recommended PSI on the sidewall. Please follow the recommended inflation setting.

  1. Take off valve cap
  2. Pump up tire to recommended tire pressure.

The final step is to go through the entire bike one more time to make sure that:

-every bolt on the bike is tight

-your wheels are secured in place so that your front and rear brakes are functioning properly

-the handlebars are tight and don’t move when you hold the front wheel between your legs and twist them

-your suspension has been adjusted to the proper recommended settings

For those with air forks or shocks: It’s highly recommended that you see your fork manufacturers set up instructions online prior to suspension set up. Fox Tuning Tips

If, for any reason, you do not have the proper tools or are not confident to safely assemble the bike yourself it is recommended that you take your bike to a local bike shop for assistance or to have them assemble it. We highly recommend taking any bike to a local bike shop for a safety check and regular tune ups. The bike shop may charge a fee to do any work on your bike.

Please note: Any damaged caused by improper assembly is not considered a manufacturer defect and will not be covered under warranty.

Make sure to register your bike by simply filling out form found in the back of your owner’s manual and mail it in, OR you can register your bike online at Diamondback’s webpage: here for Diamondback.

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